From skin plumping and hydration to improving pigmentation and blemish-prone skin to protecting against environmental pollutants, serums have changed the way we think about and buy skincare.
Whether you want to dewy up dry skin, fight back against ageing or keep pigmentation and brown spots at bay, there’s a serum designed and formulated for just about every skin concern.
Serums have become the new essential in any serious skincare routine, and we now have a greater understanding of precisely how key ingredients interact with skin cells. One of the benefits of these lightweight moisturise-binding products is that they are very specific in what they do, whether it’s to target pigmentation, dryness, blemishes or wrinkles and skin laxity.
Serums are usually lighter in texture than moisturisers, existing in water- or oil-based products, and are able to carry smaller molecules deeper into the skin where they can exert the most benefit. They are designed to deliver specific active ingredients – whether it’s antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptides, growth factors or botanical and marine agents – in concentrated doses.
Depending on the ingredients, serums can be applied in the morning, at night, or both. When it comes to layering your skincare products, you should always start with the lightest products before moving on to the heaviest. Serums, therefore, should always be applied before you moisturise. A moisturiser over the top will increase skin hydration and ‘lock in’ the serums, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage.
As a rule of thumb, use a serum both morning and night as part of your skincare routine. You might use the same product, or switch it up depending on the skin concern you’re targeting. Some ingredients, such as retinol, should only be used at night.
For deeper penetration, try applying your serum with a jade or quartz roller or an at-home skin needling roller.
Serums For Pigmentation
Hyperpigmentation affects over 80 percent of women over the age of 25 and is rated the number- two skin concern after facial wrinkles. Research has shown that a high concentration of Vitamin C (in the form of L-ascorbic acid) can significantly improve brown spots, as well as skin-brightening ingredients such as hydroquinone. In the form of stabilised retinol, Vitamin A helps surface hyper pigmented cells to be sloughed off more evenly and also acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, essentially helping to stop overproduction of pigment in the skin.
Vitamin B3/Niacinamide helps prevent transfer of the melanin pigment from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte in the epidermis. Kojic acid is another commonly used ingredient in treating pigmentation as it helps inhibit the production of tyrosinase. AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid may also be effective in helping to control hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Serums For Wrinkles, Fine Lines & Skin Laxity
Reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, sagging and sallow skin with targeted anti-ageing serums containing hyaluronic acid (HA), antioxidants, vitamin complexes, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and peptides.
Serums containing retinol (Vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and collagen-stimulating peptides are great for anti-ageing and help improve fine lines and lax skin. Dull and combination skin types can also benefit from these actives.
If skincare has an OG, Vitamin A is most certainly it. Synthetic Vitamin A-like compounds, such as retinol, have been shown to reduce many visible signs of skin ageing, especially fine lines and wrinkles. Medical research has also documented that the use of retinol on the skin can create new collagen deposition, and greater proliferation of new blood vessels and capillary formation. Dramatic improvements have also been observed with regard to skin smoothness, evening of skin tone and overall rejuvenation.
Vitamin C, in addition to reducing the amount of free radical formation in the skin and protecting against pigmentation, is also heralded for its ability to enhance the synthesis of collagen, which helps skin maintain its firmness and youthful plumpness.
Peptides are highly respected for their ability to penetrate the skin and help increase the production of collagen and elastin. Peptides have been shown to ‘turn on’ fibroblasts, which are essential for building and repairing the skin and a basic requirement for anti-ageing success.
Vitamin B3, or niacinamide, also deserves a shout-out. Its benefits include increasing the natural deep hydration levels in the skin through increasing ceramide production; improving the strength of the skin by increasing production of skin barrier proteins including keratin; improving skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines by increasing collagen production; improving the immune function of the skin; reducing excess oil production; and reducing uneven skin tone and pigmentation.
Serums For Blemish-Prone Skin
Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that causes a disorder in the activity of pores.
In normal conditions, sebaceous glands produce oil which lubricate and protect the skin’s surface. In the case of acne, these glands produce more oil than normal, causing a build-up of oil, bacteria and dead skin cells which leads to an obstruction to the follicle. This ultimately results in the formation of pimples and red spots.
To help congested, acneic skin, look for formulations with lactic acid and salicylic acid. These are chemical exfoliants that promote faster cell turnover and unclog pores. Vitamin B (Niacinamide) has been shown to reduce inflammation and limit the overproduction of sebum in oily skin types, while AHAs/BHAs gently exfoliate to remove build-up and unclog pores.
Retinol (Vitamin A) is also an important acne-fighting active. It helps prevent the cells that line the follicular canal from sticking together and creating the solid impactions that block the follicle, thereby addressing the underlying mechanisms that contribute to acne.
Serums For Dry, Lacklustre Skin
Dry skin is a manifestation of the skin relating to both internal and external factors. In hydrated, glowing skin, the epidermis (top layer) has a seal around the cells to trap the moisture, known as a barrier function. However, dryness, cold and sensitising products wreak havoc on this natural function, so you need products to bolster your skin’s defences. A hydrating serum underneath your moisturiser will penetrate deeper into the skin for boosted hydration and brightness.
Look for hydrating proteins and antioxidants that attract water to your skin; serums formulated with hyaluronic acid are heaven-sent for dehydrated and dry skin. Ceramides, which are lipids that help the skin retain moisture, and squalene, a natural emollient that locks in moisture, are also wonderful antidotes to parched skin.
Serums For Environmental Protection
Constant exposure to environmental aggressors plays havoc on our skin.
It’s been shown that atmospheric aggressors increase levels of oxidative and inflammatory markers and decrease levels of key skin proteins required for healthy skin barrier function. In addition to air pollution and radiation pollution, High Energy Visible Light (HEV) – the official name for the blue glare that comes from phones, laptops and tablets – is emerging as a worrisome environmental pollutant in recent years.
HEV light makes up the blue portion of visible light in the electromagnetic spectrum and is a natural part of sunlight. Unlike UVA and UVB light, blue light is not linked to skin cancer, but it does share UV’s potential for accelerating free radical damage. When exposed to free radicals, the proteins which support the skin’s strength and elasticity, collagen and elastin, grow weak, which in turn gives fine lines and wrinkles a chance to take hold. Continuous exposure to HEV light also impairs the skin’s protective barrier function, a situation that can result in inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Thankfully, there’s now an array of range of environmental skin shields designed to help defend the skin against nasty biochemical triggers. CBM
