How to layer your skincare products

Sydney beauty influencer Alisha Bhojwani weighs in on the best order for applying your skincare products.

As Zoom calls become the norm in our COVID reality, skincare has never been more sought after. After all, when you’re staring at yourself for 8 hours a day, 5 days a week for months on end, putting on a full face seems to become less important.

Instead, I’ve found myself reaching for my eye cream and neck cream (can you tell I’m in my 30s?) several times a day because, let’s be honest, I think we’d rate extra sleep over applying concealer any day of the week.

If you’re a skincare hoarder like me (I may or may not be using my TV cabinet as skincare storage as I type this) then you’ve got your routine down, but if you’re new to the realm of skincare, it can be hellllla confusing.

Ask a dozen people what they put on their face and you’ll get 12 different answers. Now, I’m not saying their routines are wrong, but there is a correct and incorrect way to apply your skincare. And, whilst I’m big on listening to your skin and giving it what it needs, there are certain steps you shouldn’t miss and products you absolutely can’t pair together otherwise you might burn your face off – or worse, render the products ineffective. Not ideal.

To save you from wasting your hard-earned money, I’ve popped together some general rules on where to start when you’re building a skincare routine.

Tip 1:

Thinnest to thickest

This one’s an easy rule to follow and probably one you’ve heard before. When it comes to serums, toners and moisturisers, you’ll want to go thinnest to thickest, because a) it just makes sense and b) it’s the most effective way to deliver active ingredients into the skin.

Tip 2:

Don’t double down on actives

It might be tempting to put multiple actives together but as godfather of modernist architecture Ludwig Mies van der Roheless once said, less is more. As a general guide, stick to one active per AM/PM routine so you don’t impair your barrier.

Tip 3:

Apply your water-based products before oil-based products

Remember, oil and water don’t mix. Solution? Apply your water-based skincare first, then apply your oil-based products so that your skin reaps every benefit because oil will prevent anything from getting through if applied first.

Now that we’ve covered those points off, it’s time to talk morning routines vs your nighttime routine and where you’d slot each of your products in.

During the day, your skin is exposed to dirt, oil, makeup, pollution, UV rays, pollutants, and bacteria. This wears on your skin cells and wreaks havoc on our collagen levels which is why your daytime routine should factor in the two big P’s: Protection and Preservation.

AM Routine

1. Wash your Face
   Before you have a sip of your morning coffee, splash some lukewarm water on your face. If your skin skews oily, grab a gel-based cleanser to level out your skin. If you’re dry or combo, you don’t need to cleanse AM and PM.
2. Toner or Essence
   Now that you’re awake, it’s time to grab your toner or essence. What’s the difference? Toner’s purpose is to help reset the skin, often balancing our pH levels whereas essences mainly add a huge hit of hydration. Make sure you look at the ingredients of your chosen product to ensure it doesn’t include any actives because that won’t play well with your next step!
3. Serums
   Ah, possibly my favorite step of skincare. Personally, I’m partial to a Vitamin C but this product will depend on your skin concerns. If you’re trying to tackle pigmentation, opt for Vitamin B3, a niacinamide to strengthen your skin barrier, or hyaluronic acid if you’re lacking in skin hydration. Avoid retinoids in the AM as they’ll increase your sensitivity to the sun, leaving your skin more vulnerable to damage.
4. SPF
   A non-negotiable when it comes to skincare, this should be the final step of your routine. If you’re on the dryer side, pop a dollop of moisturiser on before your SPF.

Now that you’ve spent the AM protecting and preserving your skin, it’s time to shift your focus at night to Recuperating and Regenerating – because those 8 hours of sleep are more than just fuel for the body; it provides an opportunity for our skin to repair.

PM Routine

1. Double Cleanse
   After a full day of makeup and SPF you’ll want to break it
   down with an oil-based cleanser, followed by a gel or cream-
   based cleanser (depending on skin type).
2. Exfoliate OR Retinoids
   Our body literally heals itself as we sleep – that’s why the PM is the perfect time for your targeted skincare treatments like retinol, acids, peels or peptides. Whichever you choose, just remember retinoids and exfoliative treatments shouldn’t be used together. Alternate between them (2x a week) and track how your skin feels before increasing usage.
3. Eye Cream
   Eye creams can be hit or miss. You’ll want to pop this on before slathering on your moisturiser because they’re more concentrated in nature. If you’re not sure what ingredients to look for, think peptides for hydration, retinol to work on fine lines and green tea extract or Vitamin K to target depuffing.
4. Face Oil
   If you’re experiencing dry or flaky skin, a face oil will be your BFF. It will help to protect the outer layer of your skin. Make sure to warm it up in the palms of your hands and lightly press into skin. Apply with facial massage or roller for all the at-home spa vibes.
5. Moisturise
   The final step! Time to seal in all your hard work with a barrier repairing moisturiser. Since we’re in the thick of winter, look for emollient or occlusive-based creams to provide a protective layer to your skin. Even if your skin is oily, you still need moisturiser to keep the water content in your skin intact. Especially since (if you’re anything like me), you probably have your heater running on full blast.

And there you have it, your complete guide on what to do and what not to do with your products; so now the small fortune you spend on skincare won’t be in vain. CBM