Spa Review: Halong Bay (Vietnam)

Though I’m not usually an early riser, I’m cruising along the beautiful Halong Bay in Vietnam on the sun deck of a three-level Chinese junk at 5:30am, slowing becoming aware of my awakening body during a Tai Chi session.

A natural world heritage site, Halong Bay is a three-hour drive from Hanoi and situated on the South China Sea. It covers around 1,500 square kilometers of coastline in the Gulf of Tonkin – so naturally the best way to experience life on Halong Bay is by boat.

My vessel is part of the Bhaya fleet, designed by a gifted young French architect from Montpellier. He designed this luxury boat in the style of the ancient Vietnamese junks. On the bay at most times there are many other Vietnamese replica junks but the elegance of the Bhaya makes it a standout vessel from the others.

Halong Bay has over 2,000 limestone monolithic islets, each topped with thick jungle vegetation rising spectacularly from the ocean. The views are spectacular. Whatever time of day, the bay sparkles in a multitude of colours.

Legend has it that when the Vietnamese were fighting Chinese invaders, the Gods sent a family of dragons to help defend the land. This family of dragons began spitting out jewels and jade. These jewels turned into islands and islets dotting the bay and linking together to form a great wall to defend against the invaders. Many of the outcrops of rocks have been christened with some unusual names due to their strange shapes. They include: Dragon Island, Tortoise Island, Black Cloud Island and, my favourite, for no particular reason, Fighting Cock Rock.

I was told that when on Halong Bay I have to witness a sunrise. So I was up as early as possible doing Tai Chi and witnessing the most beautiful sunrise I have ever seen. The sun rising among these ancient monolithic islets left me breathless. It bathed the bay in a surreal golden glow, and it was during this Tai Chi session I experienced my most profound spiritual experience.

I am not a religious person but I had an overwhelming feeling I was closer to a power greater than myself. It felt as though I was having an out of body experience but reality was close, especially when I tried to balance on one leg and started shaking uncontrollably. I am sure that harmony and balance could become part of my life, if I incorporated some Tai Chi, exercise, rest and a healthy diet. Maybe.

So, with time slowing down, all that was left to do was to lay down on the sun deck and let all my troubles drift away as I planned my day’s activities. On board is an outdoor health and spa facility. Now, being a man, usually my life comprises of work, sport and mates. Beauty treatments are not normally on top of my ‘to do’ list but I waited with anticipation for my time on the beauty table under the stars.

The spa area is located at the rear of the vessel, in a private and perfect setting for all the health and beauty treatments. My treatment was a deep facial and mask (USD$23) combined with a 60 minute oil massage (USD$29). With a gentle warm breeze blowing and the calmness of Halong Bay, I drifted away. At times I would open my eyes and with the twinkling of the stars in the night sky and the scent of frangipani oil, this massage and facial became a memory I will cherish for a long time.The extensive spa menu includes a full range of treatments and therapies. Had there been more time, I would have been tempted to try more treatments and leave the vessel a truly converted metrosexual. I now know why women put so much time and effort into having beauty treatments.