How DNA Can Reveal How You’ll Age

DNA tests have unravelled some of the biggest mysteries of our time. From unsolved crimes to determining paternity, these simple swabs can offer pretty accurate insights into some truly intimate issues. And today, an Aussie genomics company is adding signs of ageing to the list. 

Founded by dermal expert Stefan Mazy, SkinDNA is leading the industry in research and scientific advancement in predictive skin ageing and clinical product offering. By taking a simple DNA swab and answering a lifestyle questionnaire, it offers participants the opportunity to receive a personalised skin report that highlights their risk levels against five categories of ageing. Alongside it, comes recommendations of specific topical ingredients, supplements, and professional treatments unique to your skin.

We chatted to Stefan who helped breakdown the five signs of ageing. With our top suggestions to keep your skin looking fresh – whatever your DOB!

DNA says: Keep calm and collagen

A major component of your muscular and bone health, collagen also plays a starring role in strengthening skin – benefiting elasticity and hydration. In fact, it is the most abundant protein in your body, making up 75 percent of the skin’s dry weight.

“When you are younger, your body makes more collagen than it loses. However, after about the age of 40, collagen loss can accelerate, leading to a decline in the health and appearance of the skin” says Stefan. Of course, the rate you lose it depends on your DNA, but it’s never too early to instil preventative measures.

Although a small 2009 study found that topical collagen cream may help reduce fine lines when applied twice a day for three months, and some vegan collagens claim to penetrate deeper into the skin, generally speaking, the most effective way to improve collagen levels is through oral consumption – which has been shown to increase collagen growth and improve wrinkles and skin elasticity.

Alternatively, some experts recommend using red light therapy (professional or at home) or high-grade cosmeceutical ingredients that are scientifically proven to stimulate your body to produce its own collagen.

Specifically, evidence suggests that skincare actives, such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide (vitamin B3), are most effective. With each of these ingredients delivering their own unique skin-boosting benefits, including them in your skincare routine as a means of promoting collagen production ultimately delivers an anti-ageing double punch.

Glycation: A sweet solution to the signs of ageing

Glycation is essentially a fancy phrase for wrinkling of the skin which occurs depending on how your body processes sugar, which again has to do with your unique DNA. “Glycation results when excess bodily glucose molecules link to the skin’s collagen and elastin fibres. This cross-linking can form chemical bridges between these proteins,” says Stefan.

“Glycated collagen fibres can become rigid, less elastic and have reduced regenerative ability which can lead to damage such as laxity, cracking and thinning skin.”

So, what does your DNA actually have to do with this sign of ageing? The way your body processes sugar is determined in part by your genes. Variations in these genes can alter the functioning of normal glucose and energy metabolism.

While we’d never dare suggest permanently breaking up with Tim Tams, reducing your sugar consumption can certainly minimise the effects of glycation.

For even better results, a reduced-sugar diet is best teamed with a skincare regime that features anti-glycation ingredients. These include aminoguanidine and alisin (compounds that have been shown to block the formation of Advanced Glycation End products – AGE). However, caffeine, green tea, lemon balm, liquorice, linoleic acid, and rosemary leaf – all of which fight free radicals – can be very helpful, too.

Who said you can’t have your cake and eat it too?

It’s all sun and games … until you damage your skin

The slip slop slap memo has well and truly stuck, with unprotected exposure of UVA and UVB rays known to include texture changes, pigmentation (including sun spots, melasma and age freckles) and skin cancers.

While you’d have to be living under a rock (although a shaded umbrella would probably be preferable!) to be unaware of the importance of including an SPF in your skincare regime, your DNA can also determine how your skin handles the solar-heat.

“Your body is equipped with natural responses (photo-protection) that help to break down UV rays once they have entered the skin. The SkinDNA Genetic Test can help to identify genetic predispositions that play an important role in determining how well your skin can naturally cope under the strains of the sun by testing your DNA against melanin production, photo defence, UV Repair and UV Radical,” says Stefan.

However, it’s still not a valid excuse for not prioritising SPF as the final step in your skincare routine.  Whether it’s chemical or physical, always choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen to block both UVA and UVB rays, aim for a minimum SPF of 30, slap it on 20 minutes before going outdoors and apply generously – one teaspoon for your face and neck. One of our favourites is Alpha-H Protection Plus Daily Moisturiser SPF 50+ – which blends Octocryclene to absorb UVB and short UVA rays, with pomegranate seed oil to assist with skin regeneration and protects against free-radical damage.

The best things in life are not Free Radicals

Considered by some scientists as “waste products from various chemical reactions in the cell that when built up, harm the cells of the body”, it’s little surprise the substances that generate free radicals are best avoided in the quest for a healthy body – and skin.

Primarily found in the food we eat (as well as the medicines we take, the air we breathe and the water we drink) free radicals can create “a sort of cellular destruction in any one of the skin’s layers can lead to a full, lifeless, aged complexion,” says Stefan.

Fortunately, antioxidants offer a solution and are pivotal in preventing some of the damage.  And the even better news is our bodies have been built with a natural antioxidant defence.

“There are two main types of Antioxidants produced by your body which stop the damage of Free Radicals – Superoxide Dismutase and Glutathione. SkinDNA tests for the activities of both as well as other genetic markers responsible for protecting your skin against Free Radicals,”’ Stefan says.

However, to really supplement the benefits of these antioxidants, avoid sources of free radicals by incorporating healthy habits (avoid processed food, limit alcohol, add lots of berries, dark chocolate, and green tea to your diet), in your everyday life.

Or apply them topically through your skincare routine. With the ability to correct signs of ageing, prevent sun damage and brighten skin, there’s (almost) nothing the right antioxidant cannot do.

Don’t be so skin sensitive

Inflammation may conjure images of angry, red-horned skin monsters stamping their feet, but it can actually be a healthy bodily response – acting as the first line of response for healing and counteracting infection and foreign substances like germs, bacteria, allergens, and toxins.

However, according to Stefan, sometimes the body can overcompensate and release too many inflammatory proteins to take care of an issue that only requires fewer. As a result, the body begins to overreact to anything and everything!

“This type of sensitivity is not good as the trauma caused by a constant oversupply of inflammation dramatically ages the skin,” he says.

The solution to avoiding reactions in your body over whether it’s your favourite fragrance or a skincare ingredient that is a virus that will harm your skin? Opt for products that specifically cater to sensitive skin and slap that DNA back in its box.

Swap your retinols for bakuchiol (a plant extract that can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and improve, elasticity, and firmness), replace alpha hydroxy acids (including glycolic, lactic, and malic acids) and salicylic acid with witch hazel and opt for plant-based oils such as a rosehip for rich, natural moisturising options.