The founder of Synergie Minerals and Synergie Skin, Terri Vinson, explains The importance of Texture, Tone, Tightness and Topicals.
There are three significant aspects linked to the morphology of the ageing face: primarily the loss of tone, texture and tightness.
However, when looking to rejuvenate the appearance of the face, one facet cannot be considered independently of the others. This is why someone with a firm, taut face following a surgical facelift will look incongruous if the skin still exhibits pigmentation, dryness and enlarged pores. In addition to addressing the tone, texture and tightness of the skin together, a fourth T can be added to the mix: topical cosmeceuticals. A daily skincare routine is the basis for skin health, and cosmetic treatments and procedures will not achieve optimal results without one.
Tone
Uneven skin tone may be due to general sun damage, hormonal melasma or post-inflammatory hyper- pigmentation (PIH), which can occur following trauma to the skin. Clinically, sun damage and age spots are treated with IPL, laser and chemical peels. Clinicians generally opt for less invasive chemical peels preferring lactic acid over phenol, TCA and high level glycolics. Photo Dynamic Therapy (PDT) is also gaining popularity as it simultaneously addresses sun damage and benign skin lesions.
When treating uneven skin tone, topical ingredients are generally the starting point. These may inhibit tyrosinase and minimise melanin production. Examples include retinols, hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, and L-ascorbic acid. More recently, gentler actives have been developed that produce the same outcome as the harsher ingredients such as hydroquinone without potential side effects and toxicity. These include Chromabright and Potassium Diazeloyl glycinate. Alpha hydroxyl acids (lactic acid and glycolic acid) may also remove surface pigmentation via chemical exfoliation. More recently, niacinamide has been found to significantly address pigmentation on another cellular level by preventing transfer of melanin to the keratinocyte.
Diffuse redness in conditions such as rosacea and poikiloderma also presents in uneven skin tone. These conditions can be addressed with LED light and lasers targeting haemoglobin. Topical ingredients can reduce redness and inflammation as well as promoting healthier blood vessels. Examples include niacinamide, bisabolol, aloe, beta glucan, squalene, colloidal oatmeal, Canadian willowherb, sea buckthorn oil and Phycosaccharide.
Texture
During the ageing process surface textural changes also occur. Pores become enlarged and fine lines develop, particularly around the eyes, neck and mouth. The skin may also appear dry and flakey due to a loss of function of the skin surface to act as a barrier. Textural changes are primarily due to loss of collagen, elastin and natural moisturising factors such as ceramide and hyaluronic acid.
There are a number of clinical treatments which may successfully improve skin texture. A popular method is via fractionated laser and is now preferred over ablative laser as the side effects and down time are significantly reduced. Skin needling is another effective method of improving texture, where skin is basically ‰Û÷tricked’ into massive repair mode and collagen stimulation as numerous micro- injuries are created with the needles. A series of at least six treatments is recommended to achieve optimal results.
Topical ingredients to improve skin texture include products which stimulate collagen and replenish moisture levels in the skin, such as Retinol Molecular, L-ascorbic acid, niacinamide, collagen stimulating peptides and antioxidants which are able to reverse free radical damage.
Tightness
As the human face ages, there is a loss of volume due to fat and bone loss. Furthermore, the ligaments suspending the facial muscles lose elasticity and skin appears slack. Volume can effectively be restored with hyaluronic acid based dermal fillers and fat transfer. Various radio- frequency or infrared skin tightening devices are designed to bulk heat the lower dermis to stimulate large scale collagen remodelling. Surgical facelifts combined with volume replacement is the most effective long-term method of reversing laxity. The modern facelift is now designed to achieve more natural results where the surgeon will work on the underlying muscles and ligaments rather than just tightening surface skin.
There is currently no cosmeceutical ingredient capable of significantly increasing volume or tightening the underlying skin tissues. There are some ingredients that can give the illusion of a smoother, tighter skin surface. These are essentially film forming ingredients are act as a short term ‰Û÷mini-lift’. Examples include, hydrolysed wheat protein and a new marine sugar polymer from plankton that is able to firm skin for eight hours.
Topicals
The single most damaging element to human skin is UV light and sunscreen should therefore be your insurance policy against premature ageing. Ensure you choose an effective broad-spectrum sunscreen either in the form of a base lotion or a high quality mineral makeup containing high levels of zinc oxide and non-nanophased titanium dioxide. Skin care in general is fundamental to maintaining youthful healthy skin.
Unlike clinical treatments, products are used 365 days per year and therefore have a significant bearing on good skin. The range must have scientifically proven active ingredients with effective delivery and high stability.
Today’s cosmetic industry has modalities and products that will address the four Ts of ageing. There are many excellent treatment and skincare options available and trained skin specialists will advise and educate on the correct procedure and products to address all concerns. It is imperative that the clinician educates the client to ensure that realistic outcomes are achieved.
