A to Zinc of skincare ingredients

School’s in and here’s your crash course in some of the most common (and effective) skincare ingredients.

Algae

Algae is known to be one of the world’s most complete food sources and is commonly used in skincare to aid in the natural production of collagen and improve elasticity, hydration and skin tone.

synonym: Seaweed extract, kelp, marine extracts

Aloe Vera

This polysaccharide-rich gel is one of the oldest and most recognised botanicals. While it’s best known for its soothing properties and lightweight hydration, particularly useful for sunburn, it is also rich in antioxidants and enzymes that help to promote the production of collagen and elastin.

synonym: Aloe, Aloe barbadensis

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) help loosen the “glue” between dead skin cells and enhance exfoliation. The most well known AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane, and lactic acid from milk. They work to exfoliate the skin and give a fresher appearance, as well as increase hydration by supporting natural hyaluronic acid production. Alpha hydroxy acids, at high enough concentrations, result in moisturisation and stimulation of water holding gels in the skin which cause plumpness, firmness and wrinkle reduction.

synonym: AHA, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Cetyl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Mandelic Acid, Gluconolactone, Fruit Acid

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Alpha lipoic acid is an enzyme and antioxidant that has been shown to improve skin texture and tone, help to reduce under-eye puffiness and enlarged pores, and even improve the appearance of rosacea. It may also have anti-ageing benefits due to its strong antioxidant benefits that help to protect the skin from environmental aggressors.

synonym: Thioctic Acid, ALA

Amino Acids

Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins and peptides. Depending on their type, they can stimulate cell activity like collagen synthesis, transport moisture through the skin and promote skin resilience.

synonym: Arginine, Lysine, Proline, Valine, Tyrosine, Leucine, Glycine, Phenylalanine, Alanine, Gamma Amino Butyric Acid, GABA, Glutamine, Cysteine, Acetyl Cysteine, Carnitine, Thymidine, Guanosine, Guanine

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are the skin’s bodyguards, helping protect the skin from free radicals, which attack healthy skin cells and collagen. Antioxidants help mop up the damage free radical scavengers leave behind. Studies suggest antioxidants in combination are more effective on the skin than single-ingredient formulations. Look for products containing Vitamins A, B3, C and E, co-enzyme Q10, idebenone, lycopene, grapeseed extract, papaya, green tea, rosehip and resveratrol.

Arbutin

Arbutin is a plant-derived antioxidant from bearberry, licorice, cranberry or blueberry plants. It can help fade hyperpigmentation by working to diminish the production of melanin and promote an even skin tone.

synonym: Alpha-Arbutin, Beta- Arbutin

Argan Oil

Native to the Argan tree in Morocco, Argan Oil has been used for centuries for its excellent moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties for skin and hair.

synonym: Argan, Argania spinosa

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is full of fatty acids that help to promote radiant, hydrated skin. It has been shown to visibly minimise the appearance of sun- damaged skin and help restore suppleness. One study also found it may help with wound healing and collagen production.

synonym: Persea americana

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is derived from yeast and provides antimicrobial, anti- inflammatory and exfoliating properties to help improve acne and pigmentation and even rosacea.

synonym: Nonanedioic acid

Bakuchiol

A plant-based retinol alternative, Bakuchiol helps to improve the look of lines and wrinkles without any irritation, according to a 2019 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology. This ancient botanical, which has recently made headwaves in skincare, has anti- inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, while helping to increase collagen production and reduce the look of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

synonym: Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Oil

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Beta hydroxy acids work to control excess oil production and secretion and gently exfoliate the skin’s surface, making it a popular option for blemish-prone and oily skin. Unlike AHAs, these are oil-soluble, which means they can penetrate deeper into pores. The most commonly known BHA is salicylic acid. According to the FDA though, from a chemist’s perspective, salicylic is not a true BHA.

synonym: salicylic acid (or related substances, such as salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow bark extract), beta hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, trethocanic acid

Bromelain

This is a nutrient-rich extract from pineapple enzymes, commonly used to help bruising, swelling and wounds. It also works as an exfoliator to give the skin a brighter, more glowing appearance.

synonym: Ananas comosus, pineapple enzyme

Ceramides

Ceramides are a type of skin lipid that sit in the top layer of the skin and work to lock in essential oils and moisture. They are essential in maintaining both the structure and strength of the lipid matrix. Ceramides are a naturally occurring skin lipid found within the cell membrane. They are used in skincare products as an emollient and, because of their rich, luxurious feel, many are used on dry, chafed and inflamed or delicate skin.

Also look out for products containing evening primrose oil, jojoba, coconut, macadamia, olive, shea butter and wheatgerm.

Coenzyme Q10

CoQ10 occurs naturally in the body, however, factors such as stress, ageing and some medications can lower the levels. In most people over 30, levels of CoQ10 in the skin are below optimum, resulting in lesser ability to produce collagen, elastin and other important skin molecules. CoQ10 penetrates into skin cells to boost skin repair and regeneration and reduce free radical damage.

synonym: Ubiquinone, CoQ10

Enzymes

Enzymes dissolve surface skin cells for better delivery of topical skincare and promoting the look of glowing, fresh skin. Papaya, pineapple and pumpkin are the three most common sources of enzyme in skincare.

synonym: Papaya, Papain, Pineapple, Bromelain, Pumpkin, Cucurbita Pepo

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant from the cell wall of plants and has been shown to help combat skin ageing by helping to protect future free radical damage and repairing existing free radical damage. It is particularly effective combined with Vitamins C and E to increase efficacy and enhance stability.

synonym: ferulate, hydroxycinnamic acid

Glycolic Acid

(see AHAs)

Hyaluronic Acid

Found naturally in the body, hyaluronic acid is what gives skin its volume and fullness. One of its many claims to fame is that it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Because of its ability to “latch” onto huge numbers of water molecules and bring them into the cells of the skin, it is an extremely effective hydrator and skin plumper.

synonym: sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronan

Jojoba Oil

From jojoba plant seeds, jojoba oil mimics the skin’s natural oils and thereby works synergistically with the natural lipids in the skin to provide lightweight, well-tolerated hydration.

synonym: Simmondsia chinensis, Isopropyl Jojobate

Kojic Acid

This compound is a byproduct from fermented rice in sake and is commonly used to treat pigmentation as it helps inhibit the production of tyrosinase to combat excess melanin.

synonym: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate

L-Ascorbic Acid

(see Vitamin C)

Lactic Acid

(see AHAs)

Niacinamide

(see Vitamin B3)

Manuka Honey

Native to New Zealand, manuka honey contains natural antibacterial, antifungal and healing benefits, making it suitable for use in skincare that targets redness, inflammation and blemish-prone skin.
synonym: Leptospermum scoparium, kāhikato

Peptides

Peptides are small molecules of at least two or more amino acids chemically linked together. When certain amino acids are combined, they create specific peptides (the different combinations are virtually limitless). Acting as chemical messengers, peptides communicate with cells to activate their target. Peptides have a variety of functions, primarily they help to stimulate collagen, combat what is known as Advanced Glycation End (AGE) product formation, which is a metabolic process that damages collagen in the body, and reduce pigmentation.

synonym: pentapeptides, hexapeptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, copper peptides

Resveratrol

Primarily found in red wine, resveratrol has been shown to have antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti- inflammatory properties, making it a “jack of all trades” in skincare products.

Retinoids / Retinol

(see Vitamin A)

Rosehip Oil

Produced from the seeds of the rose bush, rosehip oil is rich in fatty acids and Vitamins A and C. Its soothing, hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties helps to smooth and brighten skin and improve the look of stretch marks and scars.

Salicylic Acid

(see BHAs)

Seaweed

(see Algae)

Titanium Dioxide

This is a mineral commonly used as a physical sunscreen for both UVA and UVB – meaning that it works by sitting on top of the  skin to block damaging UV rays.

It can also be used as a base for pigments, particularly in foundation and powders, and can be used as a thickener.

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is often touted as the most effective topical ingredient to prevent, restore, normalise and help repair damaged skin. Since our body does not make Vitamin A, our skin becomes deficient over time.

Arguably the most potent topical derivative of Vitamin A is retinol (retinoic acid), which is widely regarded as the anti-ageing solution. Retinol encourages better cell function and turnover to improve skin texture, increase collagen production to address fine lines, inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase to address excess and abnormal melanin production (hyperpigmentation), and regulate oil production to improve acne.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3 takes its place alongside skincare veterans Vitamins A and C.

It increases ceramide production to boost natural hydration levels and skin luminosity; helps prevent the transfer of melanin from melanocyte to keratinocyte and thereby reducing hyperpigmentation; increases the natural immunity of the skin to defend against environmental stress; and reduces excess oil production. Niacinamide, the physiologically active form of Vitamin B3, is part of the Vitamin B group and is water soluble. Used in anti-ageing products, studies have shown it stimulates collagen synthesis and fatty acid levels in skin.

synonym: Nicotinamide, Nicotinic Acid Amide, Myristyl Nicotinate

Vitamin B5

Vitamin B5 helps to hydrate and retain moisture in the skin, calm irritation and promote skin healing. It helps to strengthen the skin’s barrier and promote increased elasticity.

synonym: pantothenic acid

Vitamin C

As L-ascorbic acid – the form of Vitamin C that the majority of medical papers refer to as being most active on human skin cells – Vitamin C works to increase collagen production to reduce fine lines and minimise scarring and is a potent anti-inflammatory. It is an antioxidant found naturally in the skin, which works with other antioxidants to prevent free radical damage.

synonym: Calcium Acerbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Vitamin C Palmitate, Sodium Ascorbate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calcium Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, vitamin c ester, Ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbic acid

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and moisturising properties. It can also help prevent free radical damage as well as improve skin softness and smoothness, help prevent skin discolouration and keep breakouts at bay.

synonym: tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol acetate, or vitamin E acetate

Vitamin K

Topical Vitamin K is often used to help redness, particularly in dark circle eye treatment formulations or for post-procedure bruising. Vitamin K’s main function is blood clotting and tissue healing.

synonym: phytonadione

Zinc Oxide

The single most important anti-ageing product is not a vitamin at all, but a mineral. Given that sun damage is the fundamental basis of environmental ageing, zinc oxide used in a broad-spectrum sunblock should be your number-one skincare ingredient, protecting you against the harmful rays from the sun.