There are certain things surgery can’t help with, and clear, healthy and uniform skin is one of these. That’s where the benefits of a quality medical-grade skincare regime can be invaluable.
Arguably the most important aspect of beauty is clear and healthy skin. Indeed, there is a new school of thought that a radiant, even complexion is a greater signifier of youth and beauty than a wrinkle-free face. The reason? Plump, healthy skin reflects light more uniformly (which the eye is attracted to), resulting in a homogeneous, more even complexion that appears to glow.
So how do we significantly improve the appearance and function of our skin? Step in medical-grade skincare, which is specifically formulated to improve the quality and texture of skin, alleviating signs of ageing such as fine lines, pigmentation, skin tone and texture.
Available in-salon and typically prescribed by a skincare professional, these ‘cosmeceuticals’ represent the marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. What sets them apart is that they contain ingredients, at the right doses and in the right delivery systems, to influence the biological function of the skin.
The buzz around cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceuticals have benefits beyond those of traditional products. They also improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients and typically claim to improve skin tone, texture and radiance, while reducing wrinkling.
Cosmeceuticals can improve the function of the skin and may be helpful in preventing premature ageing. Examples include hydroxy acids, retinoids and antioxidants such as Vitamins A, B and C. Gone are the days when skincare need only sit on the surface of your skin and not work at the cellular level.
These topical skincare formulations contain active ingredients which enable them to act on the skin’s cellular structure. In some cases, such as exfoliants, this action is limited to the surface of the skin, while other formulations can penetrate to deeper levels and enhance or inhibit natural activities.
Many brands have poured millions of dollars into research and development, employing highly skilled biochemists and scientists to create new products delivered in formulations designed to enhance their capabilities and the appearance of the skin at the same time.
What to look for in cosmeceutical products are antioxidants, exfoliants, cell-communicating and skin-lightening ingredients, and intercellular substances that mimic skin structure. For the products to work, these need to be at sufficient concentrations and synergies to allow them to retain their active properties.
Essential ingredients to look out for
Cosmeceutical products contain ingredients that induce healing and other changes in skin cells. Research shows that benefits for the skin can also be obtained from plant extracts and essential oils as well as vitamins, enzymes, phytochemicals and more.
Antioxidants reduce free-radical damage and inflammation, counteracting cellular damage, collagen destruction and immune suppression. Antioxidants in combination, studies suggest, can exert a cumulative synergistic action on the skin that is more effective than single-ingredient formulations.
Cell-communicating ingredients use receptor sites or cellular pathways to interact with skin cells to signal them to function optimally. Retinoids, which are derivatives of Vitamin A, are the best known. They act as antioxidants and neutralise the free radicals that result from exposure to ultraviolet light. In addition, they increase cellular turnover, stimulate a thickening of the epidermis and promote the removal of excess pigment.
Other cell-communicating ingredients include peptides, which were developed for use in skincare to either increase the production of collagen or to reduce its breakdown.
Another essential ingredient to look for is Niacinamide, a water-soluble B-complex vitamin that has anti-inflammatory properties and can assist with conditions such as acne vulgaris.
Exfoliants encourage surface skin cells to shed, mimicking the function of young skin and increasing collagen production. The primary reason for skin cell build-up is sun damage. Exfoliant ingredients include alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is also used as a skin conditioner and is especially useful in patients with oily skin and acne.
Skin-lightening ingredients, including hydroquinone, arbutin, azelaic acid, some forms of Vitamin C, rucinol and glycyrrhetinic acid, inhibit melanin formation at a molecular level, reducing the appearance of brown discolouration.
Intercellular substances are ingredients that exist naturally in skin and can be depleted by ill health, ageing and environmental factors. Ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and glycosaminoglycans are key to skin function and should be included in moisturisers if they are to be effective in promoting skin functionality.
Hyaluronic acid is known to hydrate and moisturise the skin from the inside, helping to smooth out wrinkles.
While the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration regulates ‘products at the interface between cosmetic and therapeutic goods’ (that is, cosmeceuticals) and most manufacturers belong to self-regulating industry bodies, it is always safest to seek the advice of a dermatologist or skincare professional.
