We’ve all picked up a pot of skincare cream at one time or another to scan the ingredients and wonder what on earth it all means. With so much confusion flying around, we’re going undercover to discover what those words mean for you.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is used in hundreds of anti-ageing products due to its fast-working moisturising properties. Leading dermatologists recommend patients invest in a good anti-ageing moisturiser with HA, which is also found naturally in skin and achieves speedy results.
Priori Smoothing Eye Serum, $72, Forte Cleanser 20, $100, Forte Facial Cream 20, $120, Perfection Gel, $72
Antioxidants
Antioxidants help protect skin by combating free radicals, which attack healthy skin cells and collagen. This attack of the skin’s vital structures can cause damage, mutations, cell death and inflammation, resulting in lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, sensitivity and even cancers.
Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 15, $60
Vitamin C complex
Famously linked to vitamin pills and oranges, its goodness is now found in beauty products, too. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that works to prevent free radical damage. These are volatile molecules so look for a stabilsed Vitamin C product to help reinforce the skin’s own defences and prevent long-term damage.
Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic Vitamin C-Plus Day Cream, $152 Skeyndor VIT C Pure Vitamin Intense Recovery Factor, $134
Ceramides
Ceramides are a type if skin lipid that sit in the top layer of the skin and work to lock in essential oils and moisture. They are essential in maintaining both the structure and strength of the lipid matrix.
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, $160 for 60.
Squalene
Squalene is an organic, oil-free moisturiser that occurs naturally in the body. It can be derived from olives and is an excellent non-greasy moisturiser that instantly softens the skin and helps prevent cell damage. It is also non-irritating and non-comedogenic.
Intraceuticals Atoxelene Daily Serum, $189, Thalgo Oxygen 3-Defence Cream, $87
Idebenone
Idebenone, respected for some time as a pharmaceutical agent in the form of a super antioxidant, is now an ingredient in quality anti-ageing skincare products to help prevent wrinkles. Idebenone protects the skin from the elements and reduces the appearance of fine lines, reduces dryness and improves skin texture.
Prevage Eye Advanced Anti-aging Serum, $165, Eye Ultra Protection Anti-aging Moisturizer SPF 15, $150
Coenzyme Q10
CoQ10 occurs naturally in the body, however, factors such as stress, ageing and some medications can lower the levels. In most people over 30, levels of CoQ10 in the skin are below optimum, resulting in lesser ability to produce collagen, elastin and other important skin molecules. CoQ10 penetrates into skin cells to boost skin repair and regeneration and reduce free radical damage.
Clinical Skincare Recover and Rejuvenate Zesty Cellular Repair Serum, $110
Peptides
The science behind peptides came from the discovery that when collagen is damaged by sunlight it is broken up into peptides. Certain peptides formed were able to act as a signal to skin cells to make new collagen, meaning wrinkled skin could be improved by fooling it into thinking it had been damaged by applying this peptide. Peptides offer a way for the skin to repair itself naturally and can potentially trigger specific things in the skin, so that they might improve wrinkles, firmness or age spots.
Alpha-H Liquid Gold Daily Poly-Oxidant Complex, $79.95, O Cosmedics Exfoliating Cleanser, $59
Retinol
Retinol is a Vitamin A (retinoic acid) derivative that is a safe, effective and widely used anti-ageing solution. Retinoids encourage better cell turnover in the upper layers, normalising skin turnover.
Ultraceuticals Ultra A Smoothing Complex with High Strength Retinol, $85,
Ultra A Eye Cream with Peptides, Retinol and AHA, $95
Stem Cells
Skincare specialists are creating specialised peptides and enzymes that help stimulate the skin’s storage of stem cells. It is believed the skin contains a ratio of approximately one in 10 to one in 10,000 stem cells. These specialised cells are dormant until they receive signals from the body to begin the repair mode. The use of topical products stimulate the stem cell to split into two types of cells: a new, similar stem cell and a ‘daughter’ cell. This stem cell can receive the message to create proteins, carbohydrates and lipids to help repair fine lines and wrinkles and restore and maintain firmness and elasticity.
emerginC Scientific Organics Phytocell Cream, $110
Hexapeptide
This is a popular component of anti-ageing products as it acts on a similar principle to an anti-wrinkle injection. It works to relax muscles and reduce stress in the skin for a more plump, youthful appearance and aims to smooth expression lines and wrinkles.
Rodial Glamoxy Snake Serum, $195
