For over 40 years, Michael Edwards has been the driving force behind perfume classification, revolutionising how we understand and appreciate fragrances. we explore the life of this industry pioneer and his lasting influence on the world of perfume.
Few figures in the world of fragrance have had as profound an impact as Michael Edwards. He has spent over four decades reshaping the way we understand, classify and appreciate the art of perfume, and is renowned the world over as the expert on fragrance.
Edwards’ influence on the fragrance industry is unparalleled, and his legacy as both a fragrance historian and taxonomist is profound. Since founding Fragrances of the World in 1983, he has dedicated his life to making the often complex and elusive world of perfume more accessible to both industry professionals and consumers alike. Through his pioneering work, he has helped bridge the gap between consumers, perfumers and retailers, creating a universal language of scent that has stood the test of time.
With a career spanning more than 40 years, Edwards has classified and matched over 40,000 fragrances. His influence extends far beyond the realm of classification. As a trusted adviser to every major fragrance house in the world, his knowledge and counsel have become invaluable to the industry.
From passion to profession
Perfume has been Michael Edwards’ passion for as long as he can remember. His journey into the world of fragrance began with a curiosity about the science behind scents. Briefly studying biochemistry at university, he gained an understanding of the technical processes involved in creating fragrances. This knowledge would prove invaluable in his future work, allowing him to bridge the gap between science and the art of perfume creation.
In 1984, just a year after launching Fragrances of the World, Edwards published his first Fragrance Manual, which remains an essential resource for the perfume industry. Over the years, he has continued to update this comprehensive guide annually, mapping out the fragrance landscape and making it easier for people to navigate the complexities of scent.
According to Puig, the Spanish company behind iconic brands like Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier, ‘Michael has created a common language for fragrances’. His classification system has become the industry standard, allowing perfumers, retailers and consumers to speak the same language when discussing scent.
The creation of the fragrance wheel, one of Edwards’ most important contributions to the world of perfume, came in 1992 with the introduction of the Fragrance Wheel. This visual representation of fragrance families, which categorised scents into Floral, Ambry, Woody and Fresh groups, was a game-changer. For the first time, both beginners and experts could see how different perfumes were related and how scent families overlapped and complemented each other.
The Fragrance Wheel simplified the perfume- buying experience and has since become an industry standard, used by retailers, perfumers and consumers alike. It made navigating the complex world of scent easier and more accessible for everyone, transforming the way perfumes are marketed and understood.
The perfume historian
Beyond classification, Edwards has also delved deeply into the history of fragrance, chronicling the evolution of scent and the stories behind some of the most iconic perfumes in the world. In 1996, he published Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, a groundbreaking book that traces the development of French perfumes and explores the inspirations behind some of the most celebrated scents in history.
For the first time, perfumers spoke openly with Edwards about their work, revealing their creative processes and sharing intimate details about the inspirations behind their fragrances. The book was the result of six years of intensive research and over 150 interviews with perfumers, making it a monumental achievement in fragrance scholarship.
Renowned perfume critic Luca Turin has compared Edwards’ work to Linnaeus’s Systema Naturae, published in 1735, which revolutionised the classification of living organisms. Turin called Edwards’ work ‘the perfume equivalent’, recognising its historical significance and its impact on the perfume world.
In 2024, Edwards published his latest work, The American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances, an ambitious project covering the history of American perfumes from 1752 to the present day. The book, featuring a foreword by Leonard A. Lauder of Estée Lauder, highlights the unique contributions American perfumers have made to the global fragrance landscape. To celebrate the launch, the Lauder company released a set of reimagined classic perfumes under The Legacy Collection, showcasing the lasting influence of iconic scents.
Edwards’ ability to chronicle the evolution of fragrance while also advancing the industry through classification and education has made him a true icon in the world of perfume. His legacy is not only one of scholarship but also one of innovation, helping to bring clarity to an art form that has historically been steeped in mystery.
