Lab-grown diamonds have been a white-hot topic in fashion circles of late. Even luxury crystal brand Swarovski has entered the arena. But are lab-grown diamonds actually real diamonds?
We spoke to Talitha Cummins of The Cut Jewellery for her take on the eco-friendly gems.
Are lab-grown diamonds even real?
To most people’s surprise, yes. Lab-grown diamonds are indeed real diamonds. They have the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and optical and physical properties as mined diamonds. The only difference between the two is their origin.
Mined diamonds are obviously formed deep underground from pressure built up over thousands and thousands of years. While lab-grown diamonds are created in a controlled laboratory using advanced technological processes that simulate the natural diamond-growing conditions.
So, what is the lab-grown diamonds process?
There are two main ways diamonds are developed within a lab. The first, is High-Pressure High Temperature (HPHT). This method mimics the natural diamond formation process using extreme pressure and heat. However, it’s done within a man-made chamber, not underground.
They place a tiny diamond seed in this chamber with a carbon source material (such as graphite). Then, they expose it to extreme amounts of pressure and heat (about 1500 Degrees Celcius and 5 – 6 Gigapascals of pressure). Over time within these conditions, carbon atoms from the source material attach to the diamond seed and begin to crystallise, forming a larger diamond.
The next, is Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). In this process, they place a diamond seed in a vacuum chamber filled with methane and hydrogen. Then, they heat these gasses, which causes them to break down into carbon atoms. The carbon atoms then settle onto the diamond seed, gradually forming layers and growing the diamond.
What’s more, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA ) has been certifying both types of lab-grown diamonds as real diamonds since 2007.
Are they as expensive as real diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds typically cost about 30-50 percent less than mined diamonds. As you can imagine, mining for diamonds underground requires a tremendous amount of effort, machinery and labour. Whereas lab-grown diamonds, although initially expensive to set up, don’t have these overheads.
Lastly, there’s the matter of ethics and the environment. We’re all aware of the questionable history mined diamonds have and the impact it has on our natural world. These factors should definitely be at the forefront when it comes to deciding whether or not to choose a lab-grown or mined diamond. But from our perspective, lab-grown diamonds seem to be ticking all the right boxes.
What should we look for when choosing a lab-grown diamond?
Both lab-grown and natural diamonds are graded based on the same criteria known as the Four Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. Look for diamonds with high-quality grades in these categories to ensure you’re getting what you pay for. Also, ask for certified diamonds. The diamonds we source come with a certificate and a laser inscription on the girdle of the diamond (only visible by magnification), so you know what you’re getting.
What’s the most popular trend in diamond rings at the moment?
Radiant cut solitaire diamond rings seemed to be the flavour of 2023. Whereas 2024 is seeing the reemergence of the more traditional emerald cut, marquise and trilogy diamond rings.
What is the difference between a radiant cut and an emerald cut diamond? Why would you prefer one or the other?
It really just comes down to personal preference. Emerald cut diamonds have a more elegant and classic look. With more of a focus on the clarity of the stone with minimal facets. Whereas the design of a radiant cut diamond emphasisses a sparkling appearance. This is created through different cuts and facets.
