Affected by the lifestyle we lead, the foods we eat, the products we use and the vitamins and minerals we consume, our skin, and the way it ages, is an amazingly complex phenomenon.
External factors work alongside genetics, ethnicity and other intrinsic processes to map our path to skin ageing. And whilst there is little we can do to halt the hands of time from leaving their mark on our skin, there is plenty we can do to limit the damage being done by the choices we make on a day-to-day basis.
Spanning from the active cells of the dermis to the dead cells of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis), the skin serves to protect the body and acts as an exchange system for water and waste. Skin cells are produced by stem cells in the dermis and, from here, move up through the layers of the epidermis before they are shed from the stratum corneum. As we age, this process of skin cell renewal slows down, meaning the skin’s integrity, texture and resilience is slowly impaired. Also in the dermis lie interlinked
collagen and elastin fibres, the skin’s support structure and the key to a youthful facial contour. Again, these fibres lose strength with age, causing wrinkles to form, elasticity to deteriorate and firmness to fade.
While these ageing processes are somewhat inevitable, a number of external factors contribute to their onset and development. Sun exposure, diet and lifestyle all impact the speed of skin cell renewal and the integrity of support structures in the dermis.
UV damage
In a country as sun-drenched as Australia, the skin is unavoidably battered by some degree of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. With profound effects on skin health, sun damage has been deemed responsible for up to 90 percent of visible signs of skin ageing and impacts the entire spectrum of skin processes. It is difficult to tell just how much damage is occurring during sun exposure, as the radiation responsible for photoageing is different to that which causes sunburn. While excessive UVB exposure induces burning, blisters and discomfort, UVA radiation penetrates the skin unnoticed, reaping havoc on the cells, vessels and support structures of the dermis.
Working to compound, accelerate and trigger intrinsic signs of ageing, UV damage alters molecular processes to gradually transform fine lines into deep wrinkles, a smooth complexion into a think, leathery texture and mild pigmentation into harsh, irregular sun spots. According to Siddharth Mukherjee et al. in a study published in the journal of Clinical Interventions in Aging, severe photodamage morphs the dermis into a “massive quantity of thickened, tangled and degraded elastic fibres.” This phenomenon causes blood vessels to widen and show on the skin’s surface, atrophying the skin and collapsing its support structures.
While prevention is always preferable, reversing some signs of UV damage is achievable. An antioxidant-fuelled skincare regime can slow the process of pigmentation arising, certain skincare products can prohibit melanin generation and some treatments can lighten the skin, reducing the appearance of existing pigmentation on the surface. Zinc fortified cosmetics provide enhanced protection against the sun’s harmful rays, preventing further damage from occurring.
Diet
The way we nourish our bodies, satisfy our cravings and sate our taste buds manifests itself on the skin in a surprisingly direct fashion. Though we often adjust our diet to slim the waist or flatten the stomach, we don’t always think of the impact such dietary decisions are having on our skin.
For example, skin cell membranes, which are comprised of fatty molecules, or lipids, are responsible for protecting the cell, absorbing nutrients and eliminating wastes. The integrity of this lipid membrane is dependent on the availability of essential fatty acids, which the body cannot produce independently. Because of this, those following extremely low fat diets will often exhibit compromised skin barriers, due to a lack of essential fatty acids and a weakening of cell membranes. Alternatively, a diet high in Omega 3 and 6 will work to refine and strengthen epidermal skin cells, enhancing the skin’s protective barrier and increasing water and nutrient retention.
Omegas aside, not all fats benefit the skin. An excess of unhealthy fats will induce a heightened sebum production and disrupt the skin’s acid mantel – or the water/oil barrier across the skin’s surface. Similarly, highly acidic diets will cause your body to excrete excess acid via the epidermis, sometimes triggering conditions such as psoriasis, eczema or adult acne.
Finally, bad news for those with a sweet tooth; excess blood sugar molecules bombard the collagen and elastin fibres in the skin, causing the proteins to become hard and brittle. Too much sweet indulgence will deteriorate the skin’s elasticity and resilience, resulting in a ‘criss-crossed’ wrinkle formation around the chin and eye area – a condition known as glycation. Anti-glycation agents can be found in certain cosmetics, while balancing your diet with nutrient-rich vegetables and red meat will soften the glucose effect.
Stress, sleep, smoking and exercise
Triggering the release of the hormone cortisol, stress takes a toll upon every aspect of the body, skin included. Maintained levels of stress, whether it’s induced mentally or physically– for example difficulty sleeping – will result in an overload of cortisol in the system. Produced by the adrenal glands, cortisol breaks down collagen in the skin leading to increased skin laxity, fine lines and dark circles under the eyes.
Ensuring the standard six to eight hours of sleep each night will keep those cortisol levels at bay, while regular exercise will induce an increased blood supply to the dermis, delivering adequate nutrients and removing excess waste for a healthier looking complexion.
There is significant research to suggest smoking increases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the skin. By reducing the capillary and arteriolar blood flow to the skin, smoking leaves the skin starved of oxygen and nutrients, while also damaging the connective tissue fibres in the dermis.
Our lifestyle can directly manifest itself upon our complexion. By moderating external ageing factors in filling your diet with nutrients, exercising regularly and using sun protection, those inevitable intrinsic ageing factors will be slower to appear. Whether used alongside cosmetic interventions or not, a holistic approach to anti-ageing will leave your skin healthier, firmer and more youthful for longer.
