Terri Vinson (BSc ASCC), cosmeceutical formulator and MD of Synergie Minerals and Synergie Skin, shows us the light when it comes to protecting yourself against the sun.

It is no surprise Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world. More than 1,000 people are treated for skin cancer every day and a staggering 67 percent of Australians will be diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 70. Accurate information can empower individuals to make an informed choice about the most important skincare and makeup product they purchase: sunscreen.

The alarming skin cancer statistics may be the result of common sunscreens primarily protecting against UVB (burning rays), thus allowing people to stay in the sun longer without burning. Because UVB rays are responsible for burning, most people believe they are fully protected if they don’t turn the shade of a lobster.

Sunburn is the body’s warning that irreversible damage is occurring. Lulled into a false sense of security, people who would normally stay out of the sun are exposing themselves to excessi ve amounts of UV radiation. The result is accelerated ageing and possibly melanoma.

It is actually the longer wavelength UVA rays that penetrate deep into the dermis of the skin to act in two ways. First, they break down collagen, which results in photoageing and wrinkles. Second, and most importantly, UVA disables the immune surveillance cells (Langerhans cells), which recognise skin abnormalities such as melanoma and other forms of skin cancer. UVA rays are, therefore, far more insidious than their UVB counterpart.

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) only measures protection against burning UVB rays and not the more dangerous UVA rays. ‘Broad Spectrum’ protection is therefore far more important than ‘SPF’. Unfortunately there is currently no actual numerical rating to show a product’s UVA protection. However, measures are currently underway to address this and international standards will soon result in the development a new UVA/B protection rating.

SPF is merely a measure of the length of time it will take for the skin to burn with the sunscreen versus the same skin without any protection. Furthermore, doubling the SPF rating does not double the protection. For example, SPF15 indicates 93 percent absorption of burning rays while SPF30 equals 97 percent UVB absorption.

There are currently two broad categories of sunscreen available: common ‘chemical’ and mineral-based ‘physical’.

Chemical suncreens

More than 90 percent of sunscreens are ‘chemical’, correctly called ‘organic’ sunscreens due to the presence of carbon atoms which act by absorbing UV light within the skin. Hours after application these chemicals break down and by-products are found in the bloodstream and urine.

Staying power is also a big issue. Consumers often don’t realise their chemical SPF30 moisturiser applied at 7am has been broken down by their body and is totally ineffective by lunchtime. Many organic/chemical sunscreen ingredients such as Octyl Methoxycinnamate offer only limited UVA protection. Oxybenzone, tested by the US National Toxicology Program, has shown to lower sperm density and produce oestrus cycle irregularities in animals. Furthermore, chemical sunscreen ingredients are more likely to cause skin irritation and photoallergy compared with natural zinc oxide.

Physical sunscreens

Many Australian skin professionals now recommend physical sunscreens (also referred to as ‘inorganic’ sunscreens) over chemical sunscreens.
It is a natural mineral that sits on the skin’s surface, physically blocking the penetration of both UVA and UVB rays by UV absorption and reflection. The typical zinc ‘white nose’ cream has come a long way. Zinc oxide sunscreen is now micronised and is virtually invisible on the skin. Zinc oxide is also preferred as it is anti-inflammatory and non-allergenic – so it is highly recommended for acne- prone, irritated or sensitive skin.

Zinc oxide adheres gently to the skin’s surface and is considered highly water resistant. It should be reapplied following rubbing or excessive activity. For adequate sun protection at least 18 percent zinc oxide is recommended in cream or lotion formulations.

Titanium dioxide is also recommended as a mineral sunscreen. However, the particles must not penetrate the skin surface and should not be smaller than 100 microns because penetration of titanium dioxide into living tissue can result in free radical damage.

In addition to moisturisers and body sunscreens, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have also been introduced to mineral makeup formulations. Some high quality loose mineral formulations contain around 50 percent zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, offering wearers extremely high UVA/B protection. It is also important to strike a balance between sensible sun exposure and adequate sun protection. Just 10 minutes of early morning sunlight is sufficient to prevent Vitamin D deficiency.

So, which sunscreen is best? Most industry professionals now favour the use of micronised zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. There is so much misinformation regarding sun protection so it is important to read labels and collect reliable information from skin specialists rather than cosmetic counters.

With the alarming increase in skin cancer and melanoma, it is now more important than ever to take a responsible attitude towards becoming educated on choices regarding safe sun protection. And the best protection? Ultimately, a roof!

FDA Monograph
Sunscreen Ingredients		 UVA Protection UVB Protection Chemical (C) or
Physical (P)
Aminobenzoic Acid minimal extensive C
Avobenzone extensive limited C
Cinoxate limited extensive C
Dioxybenzone considerable extensive C
Ecamsule extensive limited C
Homosalate minimal extensive C
Menthyl anthranilate considerable extensive C
Octocrylene limited extensive C
Octyl methoxycinnamate limited extensive C
Octyl salicylate minimal extensive C
Oxybenzone considerable extensive C
Padimate O minimal extensive C
Phenylbenzimidazole minimal extensive C
Sulibenzone considerable extensive C
Titanium dioxide considerable extensive P
Trolamine salicylate minimal extensive C
Zinc oxide extensive extensive P

Protection Level: extensive = extensive  considerable = considerable  limited = limited  minimal = minimal
For the most up to date information on approved sunscreen ingredients, visit the FDA website.

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