A deep dive on the most powerful ingredients to look for in a moisturiser.

Ricky Allen spoke to Tracey Beeby (Global Education Technical Training Manager) and Dr Sally Noushini (Innovation and R&D Chemist), both from Ultraceuticals, about the importance of using a face cream, their benefits, plus the innovative ingredients to be found in them today. Here’s what they had to say:

Moisturising is essential to maintain the overall health of our skin. The skin’s lipid barrier in its uppermost layer, the horny layer or stratum corneum, keeps water in. Also, cells in this layer contain humectant moisturisers that together are called the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF). The NMF attracts moisture and keeps it in place. The lipid barrier can become impaired for various reasons, such as using some cleansers or getting older. The NMF can also become less effective for different reasons. If the skin is chronically dry, it can become flaky, develop fine lines, become dull in appearance, be easily irritated and even inflamed. Also, moisturised skin looks healthier and more cosmetically pleasing than dry skin.

Moisturisers can restore lipids, humectants and occlusive and emollient ingredients to keep the skin supple and moist. The skin should be moisturised daily to keep it in a healthy state. Even oily skin can lack adequate hydration and benefit from daily moisturisation. The right moisturiser on oily skin can reduce sebum flow and shine.

Across the Ultraceuticals range, moisturisers are always applied over the top of corrective serums. This is because we need the serums to penetrate the lower levels of the skin and the moisturisers act to infuse the skin with moisture, nourish the skin’s natural lipid layer and help to retain the skin’s moisture.

What to look for in a moisturiser

An effective moisturiser has a combination of both sophiticated delivery technology and active ingredients that are found naturally within the skin. The latter mimics the moisturising components of the skin and can be more effective than other moisturising ingredients.

The skin’s lipid barrier is composed of 50% ceramides, 25% free fatty acids and 25% sterol. Effective repair of the lipid barrier is achieved by applying these ingredients in the same ratio. Free fatty acids include linolenic and linoleic acids.

The ability of the skin to attract water from the deeper layers and keep it in place can be restored with ingredients contained in the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor. These include sodium PCA, sodium lactate, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is the most powerful humectant moisturising ingredient in the skin. Traditionally, hyaluronic acid molecules with a very large molecular size have been used in skincare. These molecules sit on the surface of the skin, but don’t penetrate it. Over the past few years hyaluronic acid with a very low molecular size has been available. Hyaluronic acid with the right low molecular size can penetrate the skin to provide a more powerful effect. The combination of low and high molecular size molecules of hyaluronic acid can be very effective.

Ultraceuticals’ Ultra DNA3 Complex Recovery Night Cream contains Lamellar Technology, a new technology that heklps to increase the cream’s compatibility with the skin. Its layered structure (lamellar structure) mimics the skin’s lipid bilayers. It also increases the efficacy of the cream because the structure allows for greater absorption into the skin. In addition, it contains a triple enzyme complex that works with the skin’s natural renewal cycle to intensely nourish, hydrate and condition normal, dry and oily skins, leaving the complexion looking supple and glowing.

The enzymes have been encapsulated in a liposome delivery system for optimum efficacy and skin delivery. The combination of these three enzymes works with the skin’s natural night-time renewal cycle to help deeply nourish and restore hydration for a glowing and healthy-looking complexion.

Ultra DNA3 Complex Recovery Night Cream also contains a powerful blend of moisturising agents featuring sodium hyaluronate, with skin conditioning ingredients like Panthenol, Squalane, Jojoba Oil, Grapeseed Oil and Avocado Oil to help replenish vital hydration levels and support the skin’s lipid barrier.

At Ultraceuticals we strive to be on the forefront of innovation and technology with all our products and this would not be possible without intensive research on new ingredients and technologies from all over the world. This is one of the many benefits of having our own dedicated internal Research and Development teams. We are able to conduct our own research and remain ahead of trends. CBM

Ricky’s pick: innovative new moisturisers

Ultraceuticals Ultra DNA3 Complex Recovery Night Cream 50ml, $199
Ultraceuticals Ultra DNA3 Complex Recovery Night Cream 50ml, $199
La Mer Moisurizing Soft Cream 30ml, $305. A new iteration of the patented Miracle Broth using advanced moisture sphere technology that increases the effectiveness of the Miracle Broth as well as its delivery abilities.
La Mer Moisurizing Soft Cream 30ml, $305. A new iteration of the patented Miracle Broth using advanced moisture sphere technology that increases the effectiveness of the Miracle Broth as well as its delivery abilities.
Dermalogica Phyto Nature Oxygen Cream 50ml, $199. Containing Adaptogenic Astragalus, Luffa Root, Rose of Winter and Ligustrum Lucidum Seed, these oxygen -optimising phytoactives help skin absorb and utilise oxygen for plumper, firmer, more hydrated skin .
Dermalogica Phyto Nature Oxygen Cream 50ml, $199. Containing Adaptogenic Astragalus, Luffa Root, Rose of Winter and Ligustrum Lucidum Seed, these oxygen -optimising phytoactives help skin absorb and utilise oxygen for plumper, firmer, more hydrated skin .
Ultraceuticals Ultra Brightening Moisturizer Cream 75ml, $100. Formulated with a complex of new brightening ingredients including Octadecenedioic acid, Rumex Occidentalis Extract and Niacinamide, this moisturiser cream leaves skin looking smooth, hydrated and radiant. Occidentals extract and Octadecenedoic acid.
Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale 5G Day Cream 50ml, $750. Fifteen years of research has gone into formulating this exceptional cream. It uses Orchid Totum Molecular Extract, derived from the Orchidée Impériale, a rare flower with incredible resources that helps to activate and extend skin cell longevity.
Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale 5G Day Cream 50ml, $750. Fifteen years of research has gone into formulating this exceptional cream. It uses Orchid Totum Molecular Extract, derived from the Orchidée Impériale, a rare flower with incredible resources that helps to activate and extend skin cell longevity.
Murad Daily Defence Cream 50ml, $90. Contains a proprietary blend of high- level niacinamide and mondo grass sugars to help replenish and strengthen skin barrier function.
Murad Daily Defence Cream 50ml, $90. Contains a proprietary blend of high- level niacinamide and mondo grass sugars to help replenish and strengthen skin barrier function.
Ricky Allen
Media maven, Ricky Allen Bsc Dip.PA. Dip.HM, is the Director of Aesthetic Reconstructions. She has a wealth of experience in beauty and aesthetic medicine including a long stint as beauty and health editor at Vogue Australia.