Terry Vinson, Cosmetic Formulator and MD of Synergie Minerals says skin needling further penetrates active skincare ingredients into the skin.
With the abundance of high-quality active ingredients currently in the market, therapists and skin professionals are continually asked how they can improve the absorption of active ingredients in skincare products. There is no question that improving active ingredient penetration will make a significant difference in the overall performance of the product.
There are numerous methods of improving penetration chemically. These include formulation enhancement using liposomal carriers, penetration enhancers and pH differentials. However, there are few vehicles for clients to enhance physical penetration of cosmeceuticals in conjunction with home maintenance skin routines.
Enter the at-home skin needling device. This instrument is positioned to revolutionise the paramedical skincare industry. Increasing numbers of professional clinicians are now recommending home maintenance skin needling devices to all their clients who seek enhanced delivery of their active ingredients.
The stratum corneum provides a natural barrier to an ingredient’s penetration. Paradoxically, particularly healthy skin with a robust stratum corneum will often resist the absorption of active cosmeceuticals. Creating a high pH differential outside the normal range will increase dermal penetration. However, this may result in skin irritation and is not recommended for clients with sensitive or fragile skin. This may be addressed with creating physical pathways in the skin.
Home skin needling devices utilise shallow needles that penetrate the stratum corneum with no disruption to the dermal layer. The fine needles create miniature punctures in the stratum corneum and this creates pathway for the absorption of active ingredients. The technology is based on fundamental biological principles whereby channels are produced to transfer ingredients across the barrier.
It is important to consider the thickness (gauge) of the needle in the device. Generally, thicker gauge needles produce more trauma and are less comfortable for the client. Fine 0.2mm gauge needles are typically preferable for home use.
Needle length is also critical. Despite some misconceptions, home needling devices do not directly stimulate fibroblasts to produce new collagen. However, the enhanced effects of active ingredients through their improved physical delivery mechanism may indirectly increase natural collagen production. Home needling devices comprise shallow needles generally around 0.2mm in length which are not sufficiently long enough for dermal penetration.
In contrast, clinical needling devices of 0.75mm to 2.0mm in length are able to penetrate the reticular dermis. These physical microscopic injuries result in the skin response to repair and lay down new collagen. The epidermis of the face varies from 0.3mm around the eyelids to 1.0mm in depth on the cheeks and chin. Since the dermal layer around the periorbital rim is shallow, it is not recommended to use clinical needles longer that 2.0mm as superficial tearing of the skin may result. A series of medical skin needling treatments may significantly improve surface skin texture via direct fibroblast stimulation.
Should I use the skin needling device on its own?
Daily home needling may improve the penetration of active ingredients by up to 1,000 percent. However, the cosmeceuticals applied are as important as the needling treatment itself. The results of home needling are only as good as the products applied to the skin. If cheap, inferior quality products are used, negative results may be magnified. It is the responsibility of the skin professional to advise clients to apply high quality active cosmeceuticals which are free of cheap fillers and questionable ingredients. It is imperative to support your client’s skin regimen with high quality cosmeceuticals.
Ideally, clients will derive maximum results from increasing the dermal absorption of the following active ingredients:
- Vitamin A (eg, Retinol/Retinol Molecular)
- Vitamin B (Niacinamide)
- Vitamin C ( L ascorbic acid)
- Stabilised peptides
- Hyaluronic acid
- Antioxidants (eg, green tea, coffee berry extract, phyoxyllin).
Skin needling is now playing a significant role in both clinical treatments and home regimens. While the clinical treatments may produce more visible and rapid results, it is important to stress that what the client does in their own home on a daily basis has a significant bearing on the long-term appearance and maintenance of youthful skin. Home care and clinical treatments are most certainly to be considered in synergy.
Ultimately the cosmetic industry is based on results. A client wants to see change, and penetration enhancement via home skin needling accelerates and intensifies this change.
