Gold nanoparticles can accelerate the ageing process.

A new study suggests that gold in your skincare products could be accelerating the ageing process, rather than slowing it down, often causing wrinkles to appear. Whilst this might not sound like too much of a problem – most of us wear our gold as jewellery rather than on our skin – gold nanoparticles are often included in high-end skincare products, and added to personal care products to give a glittering appearance.

The new study, which was published in the journal Nanotoxicology and conducted by researchers at Stony Brooke University, also found gold particles can inhibit fat storage, slow healing from wounds and influence the onset of diabetes.

The research casts doubt over claims that gold in skincare products can boost blood flow, restore elasticity and slow collagen depletion as has been claimed by some skincare products heralding the high-price tag that goes hand-in-hand with listing gold amongst their ingredients.

Indeed, back in 2011, gold was being heralded as the ‘new black’ when it came to skincare. In the cosmetic surgery arena, a 24-carat gold thread facelift emerged, in which a gold mesh framework is inserted permanently under the surface of the skin, promising to stimulate collagen production, plump and firm the skin and reduce wrinkles.

During the study, researchers tested low doses of gold nanoparticles against various types of cells, finding that in some cases the gold particles penetrated adult stem cells ‘almost instantly.’ Once inside, the particles had no way to get out. These particles caused certain issues within the cells, limiting their movement and preventing cell division and collagen contraction.

“We have learned that careful consideration and the choice of size, concentration and the duration of the clinical application of gold nanoparticles is warranted,” warned one of the study’s authors. “The good news is that when the nanoparticles were removed, normal functions were eventually restored.”

The use of nanoparticles – or extremely small clusters of ingredients ranging from 1 to 100 nanometres – in skincare has already caused much debate, given their potential to penetrate the skin and enter systemic circulation, as well as certain chemicals’ tendencies to behave differently when packaged into nanoparticles. This research is the first, however, to demonstrate the impact nanoparticles can have on adult stem cells, which are the cells our body uses for continual organ regeneration.

“It revealed that adipose derived stromal cells involved in regeneration of multiple organs, including skin, nerve, bone, and hair, ignored appropriate cues and failed to differentiate when exposed to nanoparticles,” said lead researcher Professor Tatsiana Mironava. “The presence of gold nanoparticles also reduced adiponectin, a protein involved in regulating glucose levels and fatty acid breakdown, which helps to regulate metabolism.”

“Nanotechnology is continuing to be at the cutting edge of science research and has opened new doors in energy and materials science,” said the study’s co-author, Miriam Rafailovich. “Progress comes with social responsibility and ensuring that new technologies are environmentally sustainable. These results are very relevant to achieving these goals.”

As the skincare and cosmetics market becomes ever-more competitive, this latest research acts as a reminder of the importance of conducting thorough research and always reading the ingredient lists before buying.