We interviewed Dr Leona Yip, a specialist dermatologist based in Brisbane, to learn more about the skin’s ageing process and whether skincare can slow it down.
Can you explain how the skin ages and what factors influence this process?
As we age, a few things happen to our skin. Most notably, we lose 25% of skin collagen through natural ageing processes by the time we hit our mid- 40s, which manifests as wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Secondly, our skin becomes drier over time as we lose the ability to produce natural skin oils and hyaluronic acid which draws water into the skin. Thirdly, our skin renewal rate slows down; dead skin cells stay on the skin surface longer, making our skin look duller.
Skin ageing is further accelerated by exposure to environmental aggressors, such as excessive sun exposure, cigarette smoking and pollution, through a process called senescence. This process produces “zombie cells”, which are mutated skin cells damaged by environmental aggressors that not only refuse to die but also infect surrounding healthy skin cells to drive more premature skin ageing changes.
Does skincare play a role in stopping the ageing process?
While skincare may not halt the ageing process, it can certainly slow down the signs of ageing. Looking younger for our age is definitely achievable with quality anti-ageing skincare.
Product formulation and ingredients are equally important to determine efficacy, so it is important to choose products backed by science and research.
Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are two of the most established anti-ageing ingredients. Think of niacinamide (vitamin B3) as a multitasker: it stimulates collagen production; helps to improve skin pigmentation; aids in maintaining a healthy skin barrier by preventing water loss and keeping skin irritants at bay; and has an anti-inflammatory effect which also makes it suitable for rosacea sufferers. Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types. It is also beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin as it helps to balance oil production.
Hyaluronic acid is a very effective skin hydration booster that helps improve skin plumpness and therefore reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also stimulates collagen production.
A relatively unsung benefit of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid is that they both fight free radicals, helping to protect against environment aggressors and prevent premature ageing.
Should younger people consider using anti-ageing products as a preventative measure?
Establishing an anti-ageing skincare routine from your early 20s is ideal as this is when collagen starts to degenerate. I consider using anti-ageing products at this age a long-term investment.
Do you believe skincare products available today are more effective than those available five or 10 years ago?
Yes, skincare science has evolved significantly over the past 5-10 years, with more research and scientific innovations that have greatly improved the effectiveness of the products available today. They give better results and offer increased tolerability.
Is it your practise to educate all your patients about proper skincare?
Definitely. I consider this to be a standard discussion for patients coming for skin cancer checks, acne, rosacea or even eczema or psoriasis. There is a lot of confusing information out there so my patients appreciate just being given the facts and recommended suitable skincare programmes for them.
What’s your number-one anti-ageing product?
Sun protection, always! Sunscreen is a non- negotiable and the best and cheapest way to help prevent skin ageing. Sunscreen alone is not enough – it should be used along with broad- brimmed hats, sunglasses, protective clothing and staying in the shade as much as possible. CBM
