Cosmetic beauty trends are forever evolving, with advancements in treatments and procedures happening almost weekly. What will the trends be for 2024, and are they worth your money?
We spoke to Dr Rafael Ekmejian from the Asterie Clinic to reveal what’s hot for the New Year and beyond.
Undetectable Injectables
Undetectable injectables are one of the a cosmetic beauty trends that began to emerge in 2023, reveals Dr Ekmejian.
“I think it will get stronger throughout 2024. Essentially, it means that your injectables are not obvious to a stranger. The injection technique is very important in achieving this look, as is spacing a treatment over time so that changes are more subtle.
“Dermal filler injections look more obvious when all the filler has been lumped in one spot instead of distributed aesthetically over multiple areas of need. For example, one person who has 3mls of filler all placed in her cheeks might look more over-injected than someone who has had the same amount of filler placed over multiple areas. If someone already has prominent features then placing more filler there is also going to be more obvious.
“The art of subtlety means avoiding extremes. With anti-wrinkle injections, this may mean preserving a bit more movement. The product might wear off slightly faster, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. The frozen look is more likely to cause forehead heaviness which is unfortunately one of the side effects that cannot be treated until the product wears off. Another thing to consider is that we need a bit of facial expressions to show emotions. Showing and sharing happiness is important to maintaining healthy relationships. While our skin might not wrinkle as much in the frozen state I find it attracts the wrong type of attention.”
Supplement Support
“Wellness is becoming more and more popular thanks to doctor influencers such as Dr Andrew Huberman and Dr Peter Attia. I’m really happy to see this because skin and looks are often a reflection of how healthy we are internally. If we can improve our health and our aesthetics at the same time it is a win-win.
“Good sleep is critical to recovery, looking well and feeling well so sleep hygiene is super important. This means avoiding caffeine for at least 10 hours before bedtime. Supplements such as magnesium glycinate may support a state of relaxation before sleep. Supplements such as collagen peptides and hyaluronic acid taken orally have demonstrated benefits for not only skin but also joint health. Biotin supplements for hair loss, on the other hand, are overrated unless you have a biotin deficiency. Rosemary oil applied to the scalp, on the other hand, might have benefits.”
Less volume more hydration
Great news – different fillers are entering the market that focus more on hydration and supporting the skin, with less focus on volumising. It’s one of the many cosmetic beauty trends we are totally on board with!
“Some of these fillers have already been used Korea and Europe for some time,” says Dr Ekmejian. “They’ve already proved themselves there. Some of these fillers are based on hyaluronic acid but have a unique chemical structure that allows them to spread more easily to hydrate the skin.
“Other fillers use compounds like polycaprolactone, which stimulates a low-level immune response and tells your cells to make more collagen. One unique filler from Korea has DNA fragments from wild salmon. This filler is now approved for use in Australia. Overseas it has been used to improve skin elasticity and quality. It has even shown effect in the treatment of scars. This filler might offer a unique way to treat under-eye wrinkles which are notoriously difficult to treat otherwise. Due to the eye muscles in this region, placing traditional collagen-boosting fillers and threads here might cause damage to the muscles. Placing anti-wrinkle injections here is known to worsen eye bagging and may affect the smile muscles. This new filler might finally offer a safer alternative to treating skin in this area.
Collagen boost
“Our collagen and elastin-producing cells, also known as fibroblasts, work better when they are in a healthy collagen network,” explains Dr Ekmejian. “This means that the healthier skin is, the more it can support itself to stay healthy. To support a healthy collagen network, radio-frequency micro-needling is showing promise as one of the more effective treatments for boosting collagen, with fewer side effects than traditional lasers.
“The downside is that some people might find it a bit painful. However, regular micro-needling is typically a cheaper, safer, faster treatment that is still effective at boosting collagen.
“UV damage is also a major cause of damage to the collagen network. Using good sunscreen is therefore critical to ensuring healthy skin. Skincare with alpha hydroxy acids, niacinamide and retinol can also boost collagen. Care needs to be taken when combining retinols with alpha hydroxy acids as the combination might be too irritating for some. You should also not use retinol if you are pregnant or attempting to fall pregnant due to the risks of harming the developing baby.”
More effective home-based treatments
More good news — in terms of cosmetic beauty trends, there’s an uptick in the efficacy of your at-home products.
“We’re seeing more high-quality skincare with combinations of anti-aging ingredients such as AHAs, niacinamide, retinol, bakuchiol and ceramides” reveals Dr Ekmejian. “Remember that expensive does not mean better. It’s better to wait for studies to confirm an ingredient is effective over time, than rush to use a trendy new product that might be causing damage to your skin.”
“We are also seeing more high-quality LED masks enter the market. These masks are probably not going to be as effective as in-clinic treatments such as radiofrequency micro-needling but may improve recovery time after injectables. They are also quite safe and unlikely to cause any harm. Red LEDs and infrared LEDs at the correct wavelengths can reduce inflammation and promote recovery.
“Dermarollers are also an effective way to boost collagen-production from home. The biggest problem I see is that people often overdo it leading to loss of hydration and unnecessary irritation. Remember that a dermaroller is controlled damage. If it is done too frequently you’re not going to give your body enough time to repair itself. It’s also going to enhance the potential irritation you get from actives such as retinol.”
About Dr Rafael Ekmejian
Dr Rafael is a Cosmetic Doctor who specialises in natural injectables, from anti-wrinkle to filler and threads. Heis the founder of the Asterie Clinic in St Ives and Pyrmont, NSW.
