The simple guide to what, and when, to use on your skin for a dewy and clear complexion.
Insider Tip
The ‘thin to thick’ layering rule
Generally speaking, your products should be layered applied from thinnest to thickest in terms of texture. Start light with essences and serums, and finish with occlusive moisturisers and oils.
So the correct order would be:
- (cleanser)
- toner
- essence
- serum – if you use multiple, apply thinnest first. If applying Vitamin C and hyaluronic acid (a classic complementing duo), it’s best to allow your Vitamin C to absorb first before your HA. If you use retinol in your nightly routine (you should be), some experts recommend applying this before any other serum or moisturiser to help enhance its benefits.
- cream
- oil
- sunscreen – this most important step should always be last in your morning skincare routine.
Step 1 – Cleansers
Always the essential first step
Cleansers are an essential part of a basic skincare routine. They wash off makeup, dirt and oil and leave the skin feeling clean, smooth and oil free. Your skin should be cleansed at least twice a day – in the morning and in the evening. There are cleansers for every skin type. If you’re prone to blocked pores, use gel formulations. For delicate skin, use milky products. Both gels and milky products usually can be washed off. For dry skin, use cream products, which generally can be wiped off. If using a cream cleanser, it’s advisable to use toner afterwards.
When it comes to cleansers, there is no ‘one type fits all’. Gel cleansers are typically recommended for oily, blemish- prone skin; cream cleansers for dry, sensitive skin; foam, charcoal or clay cleansers for oily, combination skin; and oil-based or micellar water cleansers are suitable for most skin types.
Step 2 – Toners
Used after cleansing
To up your cleansing game, apply a toner afterwards. Today’s toners are very different to the some of the harsh ones of the past and are packed with skin-repairing ingredients such as antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, amino acids and ceramides, depending on what skin concern you’re targeting.
Toners can remove the traces of makeup, dirt and oil that your cleanser may have missed. They can help to reduce the appearance of pores and refine the skin and are available for both dry and oily skin. A gentle toner with little or no alcohol can be beneficial for all skin types.
Step 3 – Serums/ targeted products
Used after cleansing and toning and before moisturising
Serums are the multi-tasking heroes of skincare. These lightweight moisture- binding products can be targeted to address a myriad of skin concerns, including pigmentation, sun damage and ageing skin, as well as tone, texture, fine lines and wrinkles and dry skin. Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and retinol are some of the star ingredients to look out for.
A quality serum penetrates deep into the skin to deliver a concentrated dose of active ingredients. Depending on the ingredients, serums can be applied in the morning, at night or both, and are worn under your moisturiser.
Traditional serums are water-based, but many now come in oil form. If you’re layering treatment serums, always use your water-based serums before any oil-based ones.
STEP 4 – Moisturise
Used after serums to help seal in active ingredients and boost skin hydration and moisturisation
A moisturiser with a heavier molecular structure will help create a barrier on
the skin’s surface so the active serum ingredients do not escape, reducing transepidermal water loss, or dehydration, as it seals in natural moisture. It also provides a physical barrier to outside pollutants and can enhance the effects of treatment serums.
While you can use a single face moisturiser for day and night, it’s advisable to use a richer moisturiser at night because your skin absorbs products more effectively while you sleep, undisturbed by environmental factors such as the sun
and wind.
Which type of moisturiser suits you is personal – it’s worth getting samples to try them out. Your skin therapist can help you establish if you have dry, normal (combination) or oily skin. If your skin is dry, you want humectants and ingredients such as plumping lipids. For sensitive skin, look for anti-inflammatories.
For combination or oily skin, you also want anti-inflammatories as well as ingredients that prevent oil slicks from breaking out. There are also firming moisturisers to help with sagging tissues. Formulations vary from emulsions (water- based, better for oily skin) to dense creams (oil-based, better for dry skin).
Step 5 – SPF
For am routines, always apply spf last (you can forgo this step for your pm routine)
During the day, it is imperative to always apply a sunscreen with a broad-spectrum SPF. Sunscreen is hands-down the most important skincare product you could ever own. To maintain the health and beauty
of your skin, apply sunscreen every single day, even on overcast wintry days. Wearing sunscreen daily will defend your skin from damaging UVB and UVA rays and will help prevent sun spots and wrinkles.
Add-ons:
Exfoliants, peels & masks
Exfoliants should be included at least weekly to your skincare routine. Exfoliation removes the dead surface cells which contribute both to dryness and oiliness and can cause blocked pores and problems like acne. Exfoliation also improves circulation and stimulates blood flow – and improved blood flow means improved collagen production, vis-à-vis plumper, smoother, tighter skin.
In addition to long-term benefits, by removing surface cell debris, your trusty exfoliator will also leave your skin looking instantly fresher, rosier and brighter.
Similar to exfoliators, regular peels keep skin looking refreshed. Light peels work to exfoliate and renew skin by removing dead cells and promoting new cell growth. Common typesof peels contain lactic acid and glycolic acid.
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that occurs naturally in our bodies and helps stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the dermal layer. It is also a humectant, which attracts water molecules in the skin to the surface, giving a plumper appearance. Different strengths of lactic peel can be applied as you acquire a tolerance to the acid, which encourages your skin to slough dead cells for a brighter, fresher appearance.
A glycolic peel contains a higher potency of alpha hydroxy acid. It can cause some tingling and pinkness, especially in first-time users, but skin therapists are adept at matching ingredient strength to your skin type. As well as promoting a brighter, fresher appearance, these peels help fade freckles and sun spots.
Low-concentration lactic or glycolic peels are available as at-home treatments. While light peels will help the skin look refreshed and smoother, they can’t remove deeper lines and sun damage. For this, a deeper peel is required, under clinical conditions.
Masks also have a place in a quality skincare regimen. Using a facial mask can soothe
and nourish skin, oxygenate, improve the circulation, help clear up blemishes and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tightening masks help firm and tone sagging skin, and moisturising masks add moisture to dry or dehydrated skin. For oily or acne-prone skin, a purifying mask can deep-cleanse skin and absorb excess oil.
Masks have made a resurgence the past few years, and for good reason. They are highly beneficial for most skin types and can give your complexion a real boost. Generally, they should be used weekly after exfoliating. CBM
