Founder of Synergie Minerals and Synergie Skin, Terri Vinson BSC ASCC explains the benefits of mineral makeup and how to choose it well.
The average Australian woman wears makeup for 10 hours a day. With a direct path through the skin and into the bloodstream, studies have shown that women who use makeup on a daily basis are also absorbing more than two kilograms of chemicals each year into their bodies.
Dependence on cosmetics can therefore lead to a cocktail of chemicals and synthetic compounds – many of which have been linked to skin irritation, premature ageing and even cancer – entering the body unnecessarily. In order to avoid undesirable health complications, consumers need to be educated so they are able to make informed and healthy choices when it comes to selecting their cosmetics.
The good news is that, today, there is a readily available alternative to makeup products laden with parabens and other potentially unsafe compounds. Although not a new concept, mineral makeup has exploded in popularity in recent years. The most sought-after items are light, finely ground loose minerals that are buffed into the skin using a wide ‰Û÷kabuki’ brush, and which not only protect the skin, but leave it looking luminous and healthy.
Synthetic vs Mineral
Although many major international brands are improving the formulation of their products all the time, most cosmetics still include significant levels of ingredients considered unsafe.
Traditional makeup is primarily synthetic, containing artificially-made D&C (Drugs and Cosmetics) colours. Some evidence suggests these colours are linked to a number of health and skin allergy concerns. Other alarming ingredients commonly found in cosmetics include artificial fragrances; PEG (polyethylene glycol); propylene glycol; paraben preservatives; dimethicone and other silicones; and bismuth oxychloride.
Parabens (para-hydroxybenzoic acids) are the most widely used preservatives in cosmetic products and hit the headlines in 2004 when researchers found traces in 18 out of 20 breast tumour samples. However, because presence does not prove causality, the study left many questions unanswered, and further research is needed.
It is often commercially cheaper to manufacture traditional makeup composed of these man-made ingredients than formatting mineral varieties. In its purest formulations mineral makeup harnesses the natural properties of earth minerals to provide coverage, camouflage and UV protection to the skin. It was originally developed by physicians to camouflage patients whilst healing from surgery.
The primary ingredients in pure mineral foundations include mica for ‘slip’ and coverage; zinc oxide to provide protection from UVA/B radiation and address inflammation; non-nanophased titanium dioxide, which also provides sun protection and colour shade adjustment; and iron oxides to add colour.
Pure mineral makeup allows the skin to breathe by excreting toxins and absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. It should act like a second skin in addition to providing high levels of UVA and UVB protection.
High quality mineral makeup should also contain high levels of zinc oxide, which is part of our normal body chemistry and plays a major role in wound healing and reducing inflammation. It is therefore highly recommended for clients with inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, dermatitis and following chemical peels or laser treatments.
Sun protection is one of the main priorities in any skincare routine. If the formulation contains sufficient levels of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (more than 40 percent is recommended in Australian formulations), the protection given against the harmful rays of the sun make the product one of the most important a person can wear.
Although many brands have been quick to take advantage of the ‰Û÷natural’ allure of mineral makeup, it still pays to read the label. Many liquid foundations, for example, claim to be ‰Û÷mineral’. Unless the solid component of the foundation is primarily composed of pure minerals such as mica, iron oxides and zinc oxide, this is not the case. They should also be free of artificial colour and fragrance.
It is also essential to check ingredients to ensure that the colour component in mineral eyeshadows, eyeliners and lipsticks is 100 percent pure mineral mica and iron oxide. Artificial D&C colours such as ‰Û÷Red 40′ distinguish synthetic from mineral formulas. When it comes to looking great on the skin, the scientific balance of minerals is critical as many inferior mineral makeup formulations may contain ingredients that do not reflect light and appear dull and caked-on. For this reason, avoid formulations containing talc and kaolin clay.
How to apply:
| 1. | Mineral makeup should always be applied over a lightly moisturised face, ensuring even adhesion of the mineral particles to the skin. Primers are becoming increasingly popular, but it’s best to avoid those containing dimethicone, as this can cause skin congestion. |
| 2. | The correct brush is vital for the application of loose powder foundations and blushes. Invest in a densely packed kabuki brush, which will not only load the mineral makeup well, but will tend not to shed hairs when you apply the makeup. |
| 3. | Load the kabuki with a small quantity of loose minerals, and apply with firm circular motions over the face and neck. Work rapidly to ensure an even coverage. For natural-looking results, it is also best to apply minerals in light layers rather than one heavy layer. |
Loose mineral foundations provide the most luminous and natural appearance on the skin and, in my opinion, well-formulated mineral makeup should be considered as the final and vital step in a good skincare routine. Mineral makeup provides natural coverage and high level UVA/B protection whilst still allowing the skin to breathe.
