San Francisco, a misty bay of pastel Victorians, great coffee, Benefit cosmetics and easy days that roll into golden nights, quickly steals your heart. In this guide, writer Rachel Dawson shares the stays, eats and small adventures she returns to — on every dingle visit. From the best bakeries, donuts, pizza places, vegan delights and a night at the Fairmont, you’ll want to add these to your Bucket List.
A place to call your (second home)
I have a strong connection with San Francisco, it’s the only city apart from Sydney that feels like home. I’ve fallen in love. It’s a city of pink, yellow and cream Victorian homes on a misty bay. It feels as cosy as a big city, and though there’s always something to do, there’s a relaxed feel to it, perhaps a lot like Sydney.
Just before my recent visit, I ran into a woman who said to me, “I’m sorry” when she heard I was visiting San Francisco. It was an echo of headlines claiming the city’s downfall, including the homelessness. Despite it, after six visits, my love affair with San Francisco is stronger than ever. I’m also happy to report that since 2024, Mission Cabins has been offering tiny homes to homeless residents, which seems to be working well. There’s definitely a decrease in visible homelessness.
The first few times I visited San Francisco, the trip was planned around the “must-dos” of the city: Fisherman’s Wharf, Rainforest Cafe, Ripley’s Believe It or Not, The Cheesecake Factory, biking over the Golden Gate… a path well trodden by many a San Francisco tourist. But over time, I’ve become firm in that you need to get to know a city on your own terms. Is riding a cable car something you want to do, or is something you’ll feel guilty for missing? Make your own impression of the city.
That being said, a little guidance could be a good starting point if you’ve never visited before. I’ve developed a little list of places that I feel I must bring to your attention. Although I make a new list of new places to try, they tend to fall by the wayside for the following favourite spots.
Taqueria El Farolito
If there’s anything in the world that can make me queue in harsh lighting for a grim seat in a colourless dining room, it’s the burrito from Taqueria El Farolito. It hits the spot like no other meal. This Latin American restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission district doesn’t particularly stand out from any other takeout spots, but locals know it’s the hidden gem. A regular-sized burrito weighs like a small wrist weight, every bite tasting far better than any one I’ve had back in Sydney. I always go for the veggie burrito in a green spinach wrap, but you couldn’t go wrong with any of the other fillings.
Bob’s Donuts
I frequently cite Bob’s Donuts apple fritter as the one food that teleports me to heaven. I don’t think I’ve ever spoken about a food in that way. Bob’s Donuts is a San Francisco institution, established in the 1960s, with only two longtime chefs. It presents as what you’d imagine a traditional American donut shop to be. There are a small handful of locations around the city, two on Polk Street and another on Baker Street.
I think the old Polk St location is the most nostalgic, with its compact size, the glowing “open” sign and stacks of pink takeaway boxes on the metal counter. Bob’s does the classics (think cinnamon-dusted or plain glazed) as well as fun flavours like maple bacon, cake crumb and pink lemonade. Though, you can never go wrong with their warm apple fritter, which I have to warn is not for the faint hearted, considering its heft.
Salt & Straw
I’ve been dreaming of Salt and Straw’s Honey Lavender ice cream since I last visited. It certainly didn’t disappoint. Salt and Straw makes some of the most inventive ice cream flavours. Think pear and blue cheese, gruyere and tomato custard tart, Arbequina olive oil and Honey Lavender. A regular scoop is almost unwieldy in its size, not at all a dainty post-dinner sweet. I’d suggest their split scoop so you can try two flavours for the tummy feel of one.
Tony’s Pizza Napoletana
Despite North Beach’s abundance of Italian eateries, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana on Stockton Street is possibly my perfect San Francisco dinner. The menu is overwhelming, with the restaurant having several ovens that cook pizzas at various temperatures to produce different crusts. Little wonder, it’s the creation of renowned American chef, restaurateur, author and 13-time World Pizza Cup Champion, Tony Gemignani. The New Yorker pizza is gorgeous. This gold medal winner boats mozzarella, hand crushed tomato sauce, natural casing pepperoni, sliced Italian fennel sausage, ricotta, garlic and oregano. If you have an appetite for more than one pizza, I’d also do the Detroit Rosa pizza, with double hand cut rosa grande pepperoni, tomato sauce, garlic oil, oregano and romano.
The Marina
A walk around the streets of the Marina, particularly Chestnut Street, is a gorgeous way to spend a late afternoon into evening. The Marina boasts houses with stunning architecture and there’s an exclusivity and beauty that reminds me of Paddington in Sydney. I loved visiting Books Inc. to pick up some titles that were harder to access back home. If you’re up for a detour, take a right down Fillmore Street. You’ll find more designer shops like Frame and Sézane. After perusing, it can be quite cool to bar hop. We went to a couple of sports bars to catch a basketball game, before finishing at Balboa Cafe. We enjoyed some strong margaritas by the heaters on their roadside seating section. But do bring a jacket. Even on a blue-skied spring day, the streets are windy and once the sun goes down, it gets pretty icy.
The Presidio
Crissy Field in the Presidio has some of my favourite views of the Golden Gate. I’m at my happiest here. Any of the grassy spots in the park are lovely for a midday picnic and a long walk, wandering the grounds. The Presidio also isn’t far from the shops in the Marina district. Visiting could go well before spending the rest of the day at the Marina. Though, the Presidio is also worthy of its own day to allow for some relaxed exploring, and then perhaps hiring an electric scooter and riding up to the Golden Gate.
Rad Radish
Rad Radish is a bright Hayes Valley favourite, winning over vegans and carnivores alike. It serves huge, joyful flavours and delights with its playful cocktail list. Expect breakfast all day, hearty burgers and sandwiches, mezze bowls and a vanilla oat milk soft serve that leaves a happy echo. They’re also known for their low ABV cocktails — drinks with less alcohol by volume than your average cocktail. These light, flavour-packed spritzes give you the fizz and fun without the heavy hit. They’re perfect for brunches, long lunches or pre-show catch-ups.
Wildseed
Wildseed is a fun all-vegan gem on Union Street that has won over plant-loving locals and visitors the world over. Its Italian-Mediterranean plates burst with seasonal, globally inspired flavours. Think mushroom “ceviche,” paprika-kissed chicory salads, inventive pizzas and mezze born from fresh Northern California produce. The cocktail and wine bar focuses on local, organic, biodynamic options with a creative, garden-driven edge. It’s light, it’s lively and it feels as stylish and fun as it tastes. It is lively without being loud, stylish without trying too hard, fun without being annoying and an easy choice for brunch, a long lunch or dinner.
Iconic San Francisco
If you want to see a lot in a short time, book an e-bike with Blazing Saddles (@blazingsaddlessf). Follow the harbour path toward Aquatic Park, Fort Mason, Marina Green and Crissy Field before climbing to the Golden Gate. An e-bike makes the hills easy, which means you can enjoy the views instead of worrying about your quads. Cyclists here ride the same way they drive in the US, on the right-hand side, so keep that front of mind.
It’s fun to start with an Irish coffee at The Buena Vista Café (@buenavistacafesf). The line moves quickly, the service is brisk and it sets a cheerful tone for the ride. Once you’re rolling, cross the bridge, coast down into Sausalito and take the ferry back to the city. Pack layers, sunglasses and a light pair of gloves. The wind off the water can feel icy even on a sunny day. Keep right, use the bell and give pedestrians a wide berth. It is a classic San Francisco day out that feels equal parts sightseeing and small adventure.
Where to stay
Fairmont San Francisco is one of those grand hotels that still feels warm and personal, with service that makes the whole stay feel effortless. Inside, it’s a little luxe world of its own. The lobby level has boutiques and tastings to explore, an on-site wellness spa for facials, body treatments and a full exhale, and the legendary Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar serves tiki fun with a lagoon, live music and rum cocktails. End the day with 24-hour room service, a glass of Californian wine and city lights glittering across the harbour to Alcatraz — the kind of quiet hotel moment that lingers long after checkout.
