Ricky Allen spoke to Marie Salamagne, the Issey Miyake perfumer to get her thoughts on fragrance as a wellness tools.
How do fragrances work as wellness tools, is it the ingredients themselves?
It is a combination of ingredients and innovation. The power of fragrance is felt right away because of scent’s direct links to the brain and at our company Firmenich, we have done more than 25 years of neuroscientific research studying this link. As perfumers, we know that specific ingredients evoke certain feelings, like lavender can be calming or citrus can be energizing. With science, we can now validate and sometimes even certify that our fragrances can help create the positive emotions that contribute to wellness.
Do the ingredients need to be natural for the fragrances to work as a wellness tool?
Not necessarily, natural and synthetic molecules have been working hand in hand since the late 19th century, with perfumers using both in crafting their unique creations to give customers, exquisite, blooming and long- lasting scents with wellness benefits. With Eau & Cedre, I combined different ingredients to evoke the scent of the forest. I used cardamon essence and a grapefruit accord .Then Calone, a unique marine molecule which brings a powerful watery facet as well as Cedarwood ,Vetiver and Patchouli. They all combine to balance light and shadow, freshness and sensuality as though someone is in the forest receiving all of those benefits derived from that experience.
Do most women realize the wellness benefits of the fragrances they are using?
Fragrance has always had a connection to wellness, even during Egyptian times. Today everyone is much more conscious of the benefits of fragrance. Recent studies show that consumers put mental wellbeing as a key priority, especially post pandemic. They are turning towards fragrance to give them holistic wellness solutions for the body and mind. With the technology and innovations that top perfumers work with, we can give this to them.
Does your brand take into account the wellness benefits as well as the sustainability when you are making your fragrances?
Brands always create something that strongly refences their DNA when making their fragrances. Issey Miyake has a very authentic vision of wellness as well as sustainability and this is the driving force behind all fragrances that they produce. Through their eco-friendly and sustainable fragrances, they use fragrance as a wellness tool for both people and the planet.
For the Eaux d’Issey collection, they wanted creations that reflected the companies ‘values-eco-responsible and vegan fragrances which magnify responsibly sourced ingredients of natural origin working on wellness for all. It was, of course, a great challenge for a perfumer. The project was very inspiring for me, especially as I am deeply inspired by Issey Miyake’s aesthetic. This meant taking the path of the future of perfumery, which must become more conscious of all effects of perfume. Looking backwards by keeping the thread of the iconic fragrances, so dear to the designer. It was imperative to create a fragrance with a timeless elegance, a natural feel with great benefits.
Where do you apply fragrance in order to maximize the wellness benefits?
Rather than just applying at the pulse points try making a fragrance cloud that you step into to indirectly perfume your skin. Try to do this in a cool, airy room for best effect.
Have the fragrance makers paid more attention to wellness and sustainability benefits that they are making since the pandemic?
Yes and not just because of the pandemic but also because of people and the earth’s growing and changing needs. At Firmenich, we ran surveys in 14 countries in July 2022 and 50% said they feel that the climate /planet crisis is impacting their daily lives and how they feel. Consumers are now more aware of environmental impact even when buying their perfume. So we are keeping that in front of mind with all of our fragrance creations now. As perfumers, we are helping our clients to reach their sustainability goals as well as their desire to have a positive impact of the wellness of all of their perfume users.
Thanks to our innovative technology, tools and ingredient makeup, we are able to achieve those goals now and will continue to do this even more so in the future.
Some fragrance suggestions to try:
