The term ‘cosmeceuticals’ refers to a class of cosmetic products with pharmaceutical benefits.
Cosmeceuticals are topical skincare formulations containing active ingredients, which enable them to act on the skin’s cellular structure. In some cases such as exfoliants, this action is limited to the surface of the skin, while other formulations can penetrate to the cellular level and enhance or inhibit natural activities.
Cosmeceutical products are commonly used at home and incorporated into a regular skincare regimen. They can help alleviate the symptoms of ageing such as fine lines, pigmentation, skin tone and texture. Components to look for in cosmeceutical products include antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, exfoliants, skin-lightening constituents and intercellular substances (that mimic skin structure). For the products to work, these need to be at sufficient concentrations and synergies to allow them to retain their active properties.
For example, antioxidants reduce free-radical damage and inflammation, counteracting cellular damage, collagen destruction and immune suppression. Studies suggest antioxidants in combination can exert a cumulative synergistic action on the skin that is more effective than single-ingredient formulations.
Cell-communicating ingredients use receptor sites or cellular pathways to interact with skin cells to signal them to function optimally. Retinoids, which are derivatives of Vitamin A, are the best known. They act as antioxidants and neutralise ‘free radicals’ that result from exposure to ultraviolet light. In addition, they increase cellular turnover, stimulate a thickening of the epidermis and promote the removal of excess pigment.
Exfoliants encourage surface skin cells to shed, mimicking the function of young skin and increasing collagen production. Exfoliant ingredients include alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and beta hydroxyacids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid.
Intercellular substances are ingredients that exist naturally in skin and can be depleted by health, ageing and environmental factors. Ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and glycosaminoglycans are key to skin function and should be included in moisturisers if they are to be effective in promoting skin functionality. Hyaluronic acid is known to hydrate and moisturise the skin from the inside, helping to smooth out wrinkles.
