Summer is for sunshine, swimming and beach hair, but for our skin it can also equate to pigmentation, dehydration and DNA damage. We chat with Sydney-based specialist dermatologist Dr Burcu Kim about how we can look after our skin during the summer sun onslaught.
The skin you’re in is a complex, multi-functioning organ, constantly renewing and adapting to environmental assaults and hormonal changes. And that’s why it’s important to switch up your skincare routine and products as the seasons change and give it a helping hand. If your skin tends to freak out as the mercury begins to soar and humidity levels rise, there are measures you can take to keep your skin happy. We chat with Sydney dermatologist Dr Burcu Kim ¬(drburcukim.com) about transitional skincare.
Do we need to lighten up our skincare routines in summer?
Yes, especially if your skin is oily or acne-prone. The heat and humidity of the warmer months, when combined with thick and occlusive products, can clog your pores and contribute to acne and inflammation. It is best to switch to lighter formulations in summer and make sure your makeup products are non-comedogenic or oil-free.
Should we be exfoliating more or less in summer?
It’s best not to overdo it with exfoliation at any time of the year. Generally, I would recommend exfoliating two to three times a week for normal skin. If your skin is prone to acne and on the oily side, you can try exfoliating a little bit more in summer. Conversely, if your skin is prone to dryness and irritation, which is more often the case in winter, then you should exfoliate less.
Another thing to consider is that we tend to spend more time outdoors in the sun, and the AHAs / BHAs that we use to exfoliate can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Remember to apply sunscreen and moisturise to help mitigate any sun-sensitivity and irritation.
How can we keep skin hydrated without being oily?
It’s important to keep moisturising your skin even during the warmer months, however it is best to switch to a lighter formulation. The combination of heat, sweat and oil with occlusive skincare products and makeup can lead to breakouts. Lighter formations include gel-cream moisturisers, or simply opt for a hyaluronic acid serum under your SPF.
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring ingredient which is classified as a humectant – a substance that retains moisture and is capable of binding over 1,000 times its weight in water. As such, it is a key ingredient to look for in your moisturiser. L’Oréal Paris has recently launched the True Match Nude Plumping Tinted Serum which includes the plumping power of 1% hyaluronic acid. This is a great product to add to your summer beauty routine to keep your skin hydrated.
Why does pigmentation seem more prominent in summer? How can we help to reverse cumulative sun damage?
There are many different reasons we might have pigmentation on our face, however the greatest enemy is UV radiation. Your epidermis contains cells called melanocytes that store and produce pigment known as melanin. These melanocytes produce more melanin in response to UV radiation. With increased sun exposure, pigmentation often gets worse in summer. Wearing a physical sunblock, such as zinc oxide, helps to block visible light which can contribute to pigmentation. It should be applied daily and reapplied every two hours, and used in conjunction with other sun-protective measures such as wearing a hat and seeking shade.
With regards to reversing cumulative sun damage, there is nothing that will completely reverse sun damage and that’s why prevention is critical. The number-one ingredient I recommend is sunscreen.
Antioxidants such as resveratrol and vitamin C are also great scavengers of the free radicals that damage DNA when skin is exposed to UV radiation.
Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, also helps to repair damaged skin cells by encouraging cell turnover and increasing collagen production. It is the gold-standard anti-ageing ingredient which can help with correcting texture, tone and pigmentation and help with fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin A is available in various forms, including over-the-counter retinol products to prescription-strength retinoids, which can be more effective but more irritating. It is best to start with a retinol which is ultra-stable but less irritating, starting with a couple of times a week, then bumping up the application if your skin isn’t irritated.
Another way of addressing sun-damaged skin is laser and light-based therapies. Some of these technologies can target pigment and are great at fading sun spots. Others are great at targeting the redness and vascular changes that arise as a result of sun damage. We can also resurface the texture of the skin using certain types of lasers, which can help correct some of the signs of ageing and sun damage.
What should we be looking for in a sunscreen? Are we okay to use a dual-purpose moisturiser with sunscreen?
The best sunscreen is one that you will apply! Make sure that your sunscreen is approved by the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA). It should be broad-spectrum SPF30+ or higher. If you’re outdoors or exercising, make sure it is water-proof.
Sunscreen should be applied every morning, and reapplied every two hours. It is best to apply it 20 minutes before you go outside. Don’t forget to apply it on your lips, ears, neck and the back of your hands. The best formulation is a cream or lotion, which are more reliable than aerosol sunscreens.
Whilst dual-purpose moisturiser with sunscreen is better than nothing, it doesn’t compare to using a sunscreen on its own. You probably won’t apply enough of the dual sunscreen/moisturiser to give you the coverage that you need and the sunscreen may be diluted by other constituents of the moisturiser. Therefore, it is best applied as its own layer.
What are the summertime serums we should be investing in?
Different serums can help combat different skin concerns and I would recommend you consult a dermatologist to help tailor a routine that is best suited to your skin. Many serums require consistent use over all seasons in order to see the best results, although in summer you may wish to switch over to lighter formulations that are less likely to feel greasy and cause breakouts.
Generally, I would recommend hyaluronic acid to moisturise. The L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Filler Serum with Hyaluronic Acid is in a lighter serum formulation and doesn’t feel greasy on the skin. I would also recommend Vitamin C and other antioxidants like resveratrol to be applied in the morning along with your sunscreen as they help scavenge the free radicals induced by UV radiation. The SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF and SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF are great options containing L-ascorbic acid (a highly effective form of Vitamin C) for summer and they are less likely to cause breakouts.
A retinol should be applied at night, starting initially with a couple of nights a week and then increasing to nightly use if no irritation. It is best to start with an over-the-counter retinol as this is less likely to cause irritation but can still be very effective. For example, the L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Retinol Night Serum is at an optimal concentration of 0.2% pure retinol and is an ultra-stable formulation. Prescription-strength retinoids are even more potent but more likely to cause irritation.
Above all else, the best investment for summer is a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.
Your No #1 summer skincare advice?
Protect your skin from UV radiation. UV radiation not only causes skin cancer but can lead to pigmentation, redness, premature ageing and wrinkles, along with a whole myriad of other detrimental skin changes. Prevention is always key! CBM
But first, SPF
Warmer weather means more sun exposure. The impact of sun damage is cumulative; it gets worse as we age as we lose the ability to repair collagen as effectively. Australia has some of the harshest sun in the world with little ozone protection, so remaining focused on covering up and wearing sunscreen is extremely important. Apply sunscreen as the last step in your skincare routine.
Hydration without the heaviness
Simple changes to your core skincare routine can help your skin better cope and adjust to external changes. Skin feels oilier and heavier in summer, as dirt and dead skin cells tend to stay trapped on the surface of your skin. Replace your heavier winter moisturiser with a lightweight moisturiser or daily facial oil for skin that stays hydrated without getting clogged up or greasy.
Clean & bright
Swap out your creamy cleanser for gentle foaming, gel- or oil-based cleansers. While an oil-based cleanser may seem counterintuitive when you’re wanting to control an oil slick, think of it as a “like attracts like” deal. The natural oils found in these gentle cleansers penetrate deep into pores to dissolve build-up and excess oil while keeping the skin’s natural moisture barrier intact and thereby helping to prevent excess production of sebum.
As always, exfoliating products (including AHAs and BHAs) to remove dead skin cells and stimulate blood flow will also boost your skin’s radiance and help prevent breakouts and acne flare-ups.
Pigmentation and skin repair
Serums, particularly those with Vitamins A and C, are important all year round for smooth and clear skin, but all the more essential in summer as sun damage manifests in freckles, brown spots and other forms of pigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles.
The myriad benefits of active ingredients include increasing the natural hydration levels in the skin; strengthening the skin barrier function; improving skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines by increasing skin cell turnover and collagen production; improving the immune function of the skin; reducing excess oil production; and reducing uneven skin tone and pigmentation.
If you want to really up the ante, also look for products containing hyaluronic acid and peptides to further improve the look and feel of your skin and reduce signs of ageing.
