Terri Vinson, Founder of Synergie Minerals and Synergie Skin, discusses one of the most significant innovations in the skincare market, serums.
When it comes to investing in skincare, savvy beauty consumers demand visible results. Over the past few years, serums have risen to the fore, taking the place of toners to become the new essential in your twice-daily skincare routine.
But with such a wide range of serums, all varying in quality, which one should you choose, and what exactly are they designed to achieve?
As the skincare industry evolves so rapidly it can be hard for consumers to keep track. Knowing the difference between serums, moisturisers, cleansers and toners, as well as what is best for you and your skin can be a minefield.
Serums are very specific in what they do. Unlike moisturiser, which sits on the skin as a cream and protects the skin, serums are much more readily absorbed. Serums therefore represent a method for concentrated delivery of cosmeceutical ingredients to target specific skin conditions such as lines and wrinkles, dehydration, redness, pigmentation, congestion and blemishes.
Most moisturisers offer broad hydrating properties, typically a mixture of oil and water with an emulsifier to mix the two phases. They are not generally as specific in activity or as concentrated in active ingredients as serums.
Serums are usually lighter in texture than moisturisers, existing in water- or, sometimes, oil-based products.
How do I use serums?
When it comes to layering your skincare products, you should always start with the lightest products before moving on to the heaviest. Serums, therefore, should always be applied before you moisturise.
Serums should not be used as a replacement to moisturiser. A quality serum delivers specific active ingredients, such as L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), retinol molecular (vitamin A), niacinamide (vitamin B3) and peptides in concentrated doses, while a moisturiser over the top will increase skin hydration and help ‰Û÷lock in’ the serums, protecting the skin from environmental damage.
The effectiveness of serums has evolved significantly over the past decade as scientists now have a greater understanding of precisely how ingredients interact with skin cells.
New methods of delivery have been devised, such as encapsulation in oil-soluble vessels called liposomes. They have also created methods of micronising and nanofying active ingredients, which means the particles are made small enough to penetrate the skin barrier.
The acidity or alkalinity of the active ingredient is also important in achieving optimal delivery of ingredients. Some ingredients are only active at a certain pH level.
What should I look for?
As a general rule, these actives are used to address the following conditions:
- Fine line reduction: Retinol molecular, L-ascorbic acid, collagen stimulating peptides (eg. trylagen)
- Congested, acneic skin: Lactic acid, salicylic acid, retinol molecular, niacinamide
- Pigmented, sun damaged skin: Vitamin A, vitamin B3, vitamin C anhydrous, chromabright, azeloglycina
- Dehydrated, dry skin: Hyaluronic acid
On the face of it they may seem expensive, but high quality serums offer higher value per ml as they are generally applied sparingly and can be spread further compared with heavier moisturisers.
Their shelf life once opened varies according to the active ingredient and preservative system. Many formulas now tend to avoid paraben preservatives, opting for naturally-derived preservatives with a higher safety profile.
Quality preservatives should offer at least a two-year shelf life. Furthermore, antioxidants such as vitamin E help to stabilise active ingredients and prevent oxidation. However, some actives, such a L-ascorbic acid should never be formulated in a water-based serum as this ingredient is highly unstable in a water phase.
Of course, not all serums are created equal. Department store and pharmacy brands may not incorporate sufficiently high levels of actives in the serum to create visible change in the skin.
Make sure you read your labels and ask your skin specialist or aesthetician for guidance on clinical data to support ingredient claims.
Finally, department store retailers are not qualified in educating their clients on addressing specific skin concerns.
I strongly recommend you seek the advice of a medically trained skin specialist or a qualified skin therapist to help you choose a serum – indeed, devise a skincare regimen as a whole – to suit your skin and its requirements. It is worth the investment in sound advice to achieve optimum results.
